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Remove the thyme, add the peppers and bourbon (if using), and stir in the cayenne and smoked paprika.

Puree until smooth and free of lumps; taste for salt and season as needed.

Return the soup to the saucepan and reheat.

Serve hot, with lemon wedges, if desired, for a finishing touch.

Makes 4 servings

Winter . . .

Baby, it’s cold outside.

When the ground is frozen solid and local produce choices are few, meatless seems hard to do. But hang onto your New Year’s hat and step up to the stove; winter is tailor made for stirring the pot—of beans (Hoppin’ John, black bean- sweet potato chili) and braises (veg curry ’n’ dumplings), the culinary equivalent of wooly socks. It’s the green light to crank up the oven for casseroles (brocco mac & cheese) and savory pies of all shapes and sizes (shepherd’s pie with chard-lentil filling, potpie with cheddar crust), warming both the belly and the spirit.

Black Bean-Sweet Potato Chili ★ Skillet Corn Bread

BLACK BEAN-SWEET POTATO CHILI

When I began developing hearty Meatless Mondays recipes, I asked both meat eaters and vegetarians what kinds of recipes they’d like to see, and the overwhelming response was black bean chili. Here’s my version, with a fair amount of spice, smokiness, and just enough tomato flavor to add tang without overwhelming acidity. Sweet potatoes lend color, texture, and immune-boosting beta-carotene, which we all can use during the coldest, darkest months of the year. In the course of my testing, I’ve determined that dried beans deliver the tastiest results with a texture that holds up for several days. Remember how chili gets better the next day? This version is no exception.

Skillet corn bread (page 148) is a knockout partner, but so are warmed-up corn tortillas or a simple pot of rice.

KITCHEN NOTES: I highly recommend dried beans over canned for this dish and urge you to give them a chance, even just once. I’ve tested this recipe both ways and the texture and flavor of the dried-bean version are infinitely more satisfying.

INGREDIENTS: Simple Pot of Black Beans

1 pound (2 cups) dried black

beans

2 cloves garlic, peeled and

smashed

1 teaspoon salt

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Place the beans in a soup pot and cover with water, plus a few inches. Soak for at least 4 hours or overnight at room temperature. (If your kitchen is very warm, place the beans in the fridge to minimize chances of fermentation.) Drain. You now have 4 cups of soaked beans.

Return the beans to the pot, add 4½ cups water to cover, plus the garlic. Bring to a boil, and cook at a hard boil for 5 minutes. Skim off any scum that rises to the top.

Lower the heat to a simmer and cook, covered, for at least 1 hour, until the beans are tender to the bite. The cooking time will depend on the age of the beans—older beans take longer. Meanwhile, begin working on the sauce (details follow), which takes about 30 minutes and will be ready by the time the beans are done.

Season the beans with the salt and remove the garlic cloves.

INGREDIENTS: Sauce

1 medium-size sweet potato

(12 to 16 ounces), peeled and

cut into ½-inch cubes

(2 to 2½ cups)

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium-size onion, chopped

finely

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon salt

2 to 2½ cups tomato puree

2 tablespoons tomato paste,

dissolved in ¼ cup water

2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce,

minced

Possible garnishes: Chopped

fresh cilantro, squeeze of lime,

grated cotija or Monterey Jack

cheese, chopped scallions,

sour cream

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Have ready a bowl of ice water. Bring about 3 cups of water to a boil in a medium-size saucepan and add the sweet potato. Return to a boil, cover, and cook for 2 minutes. With a skimmer or sieve with a handle, remove the sweet potato from the pot and transfer to the bowl. Drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a deep skillet over medium heat and add the onion. Cook until softened,