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Turn off the heat. Stir in the cilantro, if using, and drizzle the remaining 2 teaspoons of sesame oil.

Note: You may make this dish without eggs. If so, eliminate the teaspoon of sesame oil at the beginning of the recipe and proceed with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, going straight to adding the vegetables and aromatics. Stir in the cashews just at the end, before serving.

Makes three to four 2-cup servings

GRILLED CHEESE & SOUP FOR ALL SEASONS

When life throws you daggers, sometimes the only thing that’ll save the day is a grilled cheese sandwich. A few years ago, while working at washingtonpost.com, I wrote a piece called “The Tao of Grilled Cheese,” which explains the “You had me at hello” allure of this universally beloved sandwich: “The most simple and humble of hot sandwiches is what makes me feel most at home, when time stands still, when I think of nothing but the alchemy that results from two slices of ordinary bread, a few hunks of cheese and the heat of a skillet. It is the grilled cheese that has walked alongside me throughout my life.”

So I present my grilled cheese, jazzed up with a little Dijon mustard and olive oil in place of butter. Naturally, soup is on the menu, because when there’s grilled cheese, there’s soup, just like when we were kids. There are three to choose from, depending on the season, and all can be made in advance.

GRILLED CHEESE TEMPLATE

INGREDIENTS FOR 1 SANDWICH

2 slices bread (white, rye, whole

wheat, pumpernickel, or raisin)

1 to 2 ounces of your favorite

cheese, sliced thinly (cheddar,

Gruyere, Havarti, Monterey

Jack, Gouda, or Gorgonzola, to

name a few)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 to 3 teaspoons olive oil

Optional flavor zingers: Pickled

peppers or cucumbers, thinly

sliced red onion, sliced tomato

Suggested crispy

accompaniment: kale chips

(page 57)

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Arrange the cheese on one piece of bread. On the second slice, spread the mustard. Add any optional flavor zingers at this time. Place the mustard-coated slice on top of cheese-covered slice and press together.

Over medium heat, heat the oil in a small skillet or on a griddle, tilting so that the oil is evenly distributed. Place the sandwich in the skillet and cook until golden brown on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes, adjusting the heat if the oil begins to smoke.

With a spatula, turn the sandwich onto its second side, and weigh down top with a sandwich press or a small lid (what’s important is the weight). This helps facilitate the melting of the cheese before the bread begins to burn. Cook until the sandwich has arrived at desired melty gooiness and the second side is golden brown.

Slice in half and eat while hot.

POTATO-LEEK-PARSLEY PUREE

INGREDIENTS

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1 leek, cleaned thoroughly, root

and dark green top removed,

and sliced into ½-inch rounds

4 medium-size potatoes (such as

Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn),

cleaned, quartered, and rid of

blemishes

2 teaspoons salt

2 sprigs fresh thyme

6 black peppercorns

½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley,

chopped

Ground black pepper

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

In a medium-size saucepan, combine the garlic, leek, potatoes, salt, and thyme. Place the peppercorns in cheesecloth or an herb sachet and add to the pot. Cover the ingredients with just enough water to barely cover the vegetables. This is important.

Bring to a lively simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Do not cover, or the beautiful green leeks will turn an ugly army brown. Take off the heat. Remove the peppercorn bundle.

With a handheld stick blender, puree the contents of the pot until well blended. Alternatively, puree in a blender or food processor, in batches. Add the parsley and you will see beautiful green flecks transform the soup. Season with the pepper to taste.

Serve immediately. Can also be made in advance and reheated. Nice when served with crusty bread or croutons.

Makes 4 servings

BROCCOLI SOUP

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons