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to measure the temperature, heat oil (at least 2 in/5 cm deep) in a deep fryer, large pot, or high-sided frying pan over medium heat to 350°F/180°C. (For frying tips.) When the doughnuts have doubled, carefully place a few in the oil, taking care not to overcrowd them, and fry for about 30 seconds, or until light golden brown on the bottom. (Note that the doughnuts will look more brown when they’re done than they do in the oil.) Carefully turn the doughnuts and fry for another 20 to 30 seconds, until golden on the second side, then transfer to a cooling rack set over a layer of paper towels/absorbent paper to cool, rounded side up.

- While the doughnuts cool a bit, fill a pastry/piping bag fitted with a plain tip (although any tip will work) with about a quarter of the cream filling. When the doughnuts are still a little warm, poke the pastry/piping tip into the side of a doughnut, and add pastry cream until the doughnut feels heavy—stop if you feel the seams or the bottom of the doughnut cracking open. Use this portion of filling to fill three doughnuts, then repeat with the remaining filling and doughnuts.

- When all of the doughnuts have been filled carefully, dip one side of each into the warm chocolate icing. (for icing tips.) Let dry on cooling racks, iced side up, for 10 to 15 minutes.

LEAVING YOUR MARK

After their second rise, yeast-raised doughnuts are a picture of poofy perfection. But when your rings or bars are ready for the hot oil, be careful—one bad move from you could result in a very wonky doughnut. When you transfer the doughnuts to the oil, don’t grab them by the sides with your hands, because your fingers will leave big indentations that will stick around when frying. Instead, use a bench scraper, thin plastic cutting board, or large flat spatula to pick up the doughnut up with one hand. Transfer the doughnut into the other hand, so that the side that was on the baking sheet/tray is now against the palm of your hand, and slide it into the oil from there. Avoiding touching the doughnut’s sticky top will ensure prettier doughnuts, too.

PASPBERRY BULLSEYES

MAKES ONE DOZEN (plus belly buttons)

ACCORDING TO JAIME TARPINIAN, ONE OF TOP POT’S BAKERS, THE BEST DOUGHNUT is the one no one ever has a chance to buy—and it’s only one bite. To make bullseyes— glazed raised doughnuts filled with jam in the center—the dough is cut with a regular doughnut cutter, but the hole, or “belly button,” is left in while the dough rises and cooks. After glazing, the glazed centers are easily removed to make neat little holes for the jam, leaving the lucky doughnut maker with one fresh, perfect bite. Choose a jam that has an even texture and is thick enough to hold up in an ice cream scoop.

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3 tbsp (four 1/4 oz/7 g packages) active dry yeast

1 cup/240 ml very warm water (about 105°F/40°C)

1/2 cup/100 g sugar, plus 1 tbsp

1/2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp ground mace

2 tsp iodized salt

4 to 41/2 cups/550 to 620 g bread/strong flour, plus more for rolling and cutting

1/4 cup/55 g shortening/vegetable lard, trans-fat-free preferred

3 large egg yolks

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Canola oil, for frying

Big batch Simplest Vanilla Glaze or Top Pot’s Vanilla Doughnut Glaze

1 cup/240 g thick raspberry jam

TIME

1 hour 5 minutes active time, plus glazing and filling

EQUIPMENT

Doughnut cutter (or 23/4 in/7 cm and 11/4 in/3 cm round cutters)

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- Whisk the yeast, water, and 1 tbsp of the sugar together in the work bowl of a stand mixer and set aside for 5 minutes.

- In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 1/2 cup/100 g sugar, baking powder, mace, salt, and 4 cups/550 g of the bread/strong flour. Set aside.

- Add the shortening/vegetable lard, egg yolks, and vanilla to the foaming yeast mixture. Mix with the paddle attachment on low speed for 1 minute, to break up the shortening. Add about a third of the dry ingredients and mix until blended on low speed, then repeat with the second third of the dry ingredients.

- Switch to the dough hook and add the remaining dry ingredients, mixing on low speed