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Top Pot Hand-Forged Doughnuts - Mark Klebeck [33]

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then horizontally, so you make a checkerboard pattern. Scoop and rearrange the dough, and cut again in both directions. Repeat until the berries are evenly distributed. (This is not an exact process.) The mixture should be sticky, and the dough should be chopped into tons of small pieces.

- Using floured hands, form the dough into a log roughly 12 in/30 cm long by 3 in/8 cm in diameter, using a couple handfuls of extra flour to coat the log completely with flour. (As the berries melt, the dough will get wet, so add flour as you go to prevent sticking.) Slice it (at 1 in/2.5 cm intervals) into 12 equal pieces. Using floured hands, pat each piece of dough into a palm-size mound. Gently transfer the fritters to two lightly floured baking sheets/trays, arranging them at least 2 in/5 cm apart, and let rise in the oven (with new boiling water), uncovered, for another 30 to 45 minutes, until doubled in size.

- Using a candy thermometer to measure the temperature, heat oil (at least 2 in/5 cm deep) in a deep fryer, large pot, or high-sided frying pan over medium heat to 340°F/180°C. (For frying tips.) When the fritters have doubled, carefully place a few in the oil, taking care not to overcrowd them, and fry for 60 to 75 seconds, or until light golden brown on the bottom. (Note that the fritters will look more brown when they’re done than they do in the oil.) Carefully turn the fritters and fry for another 30 to 45 seconds, until golden on the second side, then transfer to a cooling rack set over a layer of paper towels/absorbent paper to cool, roundest side up. After the first batch, wait a moment or two, then check one fritter to verify that the dough has cooked through in the center. Repeat with the remaining fritters.

- While the fritters are still very warm, dip the entire rounded side of each into the warm Berry Glaze. (for glazing tips.) Let dry on cooling racks, glazed side up, for 10 to 15 minutes.

OLD-FASHIONED DOUGHNUTS

Old-fashioned doughnuts, fried at a lower temperature and turned twice to achieve their signature ridges and petals, were once called “crunchy” doughnuts because of their slightly crispier exteriors.

If you’re planning to fry doughnuts for the next morning, old-fashioneds are a good choice. They hold up remarkably well because their cracks and crevices allow for plenty of glaze to sink in and around the cooked doughnut.

Master Recipe:

SOUR CREAM OLD-FASHIONED DOUGHNUTS


MAKES ONE DOZEN doughnuts and holes

TOP POT CO-OWNER MARK KLEBECK’S IDEAL DOUGHNUT EXPERIENCE REQUIRES a cup of hot black coffee and a plain old-fashioned. Made with sour cream and extra leavening and turned twice while frying, these doughnuts require a little more attention— but the ridges and petals that form during frying are perfect for catching extra glaze, which means glazed old-fashioneds keep better than yeast-raised or cake doughnuts.

Top your old-fashioneds with a small batch of Top Pot’s Vanilla Doughnut Glaze, Simplest Vanilla Glaze, or Simple Chocolate Icing.

* * *

21/4 cups/255 g cake/soft-wheat flour, plus more for rolling and cutting

11/2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp iodized salt

3/4 tsp ground nutmeg

1/2 cup/100 g sugar

2 tbsp shortening/vegetable lard, trans-fat-free preferred

2 large egg yolks

2/3 cup/165 ml sour cream

Canola oil, for frying

TIME

1 hour active time, plus glazing or icing

EQUIPMENT

Doughnut cutter (or 23/4 in/7 cm and 11/4 in/3 cm round cutters)

* * *

- Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg together into a medium bowl, and set aside.

- In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the sugar and shortening/vegetable lard for 1 minute on low speed, until sandy. Add the egg yolks, then mix for 1 more minute on medium speed, scraping the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula if necessary, until the mixture is light colored and thick.

- Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients in three separate additions, alternating with the sour cream, mixing until just combined on low speed and scraping the sides of the bowl each time. The dough will be

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