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Sprinkle with the remaining red onion, dill, chives, and capers and then the salmon caviar. Cut the torte into wedges like a cake. Serve with the mixed greens and cucumber vinaigrette. This is a showoff dish for sure; when I served it in restaurants I charged $14 a slice.

Dim Sum …

and then some

For me, Chinatown is the most vibrant neighborhood in New York City. The sidewalks are packed with colorful noodle shops, produce stands, fish markets, and amazing authentic Chinese food. After a big night out, my friends and I get together for a big dim sum brunch in Chinatown. A cup of hot tea and a few steamed shrimp and ginger siu mai and I’m good as new.

Dim sum is a traditional Cantonese luncheon of small dumplings, most either steamed or pan-fried. The dumplings themselves are a snap to make and can even be made in advance. When you make them at home you’ll be able to taste one of New York’s best ethnic foods. You will need a bamboo or metal steamer with stackable layers, which you can pick up for next to nothing at most Asian markets. Dim sum are perfect for company and are great at a cocktail party. As the Chinese say, Cing Shang (Enjoy!).

Shrimp and Ginger Siu Mai Dumplings

Shrimp and Ginger Siu Mai Dumplings

45 minutes

Makes 36 dumplings

Shrimp Filling

¾ pound shrimp, shelled and deveined

½ pound ground pork

1 green onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2-inch piece fresh ginger, grated

2 egg whites

2 teaspoons cornstarch

Juice of ½ lemon

1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon dry sherry

¼ teaspoon sea salt

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 (10-ounce) package round wonton wrappers

Canola oil, for brushing the steamer

Savoy cabbage, for lining the steamer (optional)

2 green onions, sliced, for garnish

Dipping sauces

Pulse the filling ingredients in a food processor until partly smooth but not completely pureed; I like my fillings to have a little texture. Season with salt and pepper.

Hold a wonton wrapper in your hand. Drop 1 tablespoon of the filling onto the center of the wrapper; dipping the spoon in cold water first will make the filling come off easier. Gather the edges of the wrapper up around the filling and squeeze the sides slightly with your fingers. The sides will naturally pleat, leaving the filling slightly exposed. Tap the dumpling on the table so the bottom is flat and it stands upright. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. (You can freeze the leftover filling for 2 or 3 weeks.)

Lightly oil the bottom of a 10-inch bamboo steamer and line it with the whole cabbage leaves. Stand the dumplings in the steamer in a single layer and don’t let them touch. You should be able to get 12 siu mai in the steamer at a time. Bring 1 to 2 inches of water to a boil in a wok. Set the bamboo steamer inside the wok, then cover it with the bamboo lid. Steam for 10 to 12 minutes or until the filling feels firm. Garnish with green onions and serve with one of the dipping sauces.

Buddha’s Delight

Buddha’s Delight

45 minutes

Makes 24 dumplings

Vegetable Filling

Sesame oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1-inch piece fresh ginger, grated

1 leek, well washed and coarsely chopped

1 head baby bok choy, coarsely chopped

½ cup shiitake mushrooms

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

½ bunch fresh cilantro

Sea salt and ground white pepper

2 egg whites

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 (10-ounce) package round wonton wrappers

1 egg white, lightly beaten

Canola oil, for brushing the steamer

Savoy cabbage, for lining the steamer

Dipping sauces

Heat a large skillet over medium heat and coat with a 2-count of sesame oil. Add the garlic and ginger to the pan and stir for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the leek, bok choy, mushrooms, carrot, and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper. Stir and cook for 5 minutes, until the vegetables soften. Remove from the heat and let the vegetables cool to room temperature. Scrape the vegetable mixture into a food processor; add the egg whites and cornstarch. Pulse the filling until