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Pulse the filling ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Set aside.

In a large pot, simmer the broth ingredients together for 10 minutes to infuse the flavor. Shut it off and cover so you can focus on assembling the dumplings.

Lay a wonton square on a flat surface with one corner facing you. Brush the surface with the beaten egg white and drop 2 teaspoons of the pork filling in the center. Fold the wonton in half, corner to corner, to form a triangle. Press around the filling to knock out any air bubbles; then press the seam together to seal. Brush the 2 side points with beaten egg white. Place your index finger in the center so you have something to press up against; then fold the 2 sides into the center, slightly overlapping, and press the dough against your finger with your thumb to form a tight seal. Lightly dust the filled dumplings with cornstarch to keep them from sticking together and place them on a cookie sheet. When these are folded they look like Pope’s hats.

When the dumplings are all filled and folded, strain the soup broth to remove the solids. Bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat. Add the dumplings and boil for 12 minutes. Add the bok choy and shiitakes; continue to simmer for 3 minutes, until tender. Ladle the soup into each bowl and allow 3 dumplings per person. Garnish with green onions and a drizzle of chile oil.

Sweet Chili Sauce

*Makes about ¾ cup

6 tablespoons honey

3 tablespoons red chili paste, such as sambal

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

Stir all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

Soy Sauce with Ginger and Shallot

*Makes almost 1 cup

½ cup mirin or sake

3 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 shallot, cut in paper-thin circles

1-inch piece ginger, peeled and grated

Warm all the ingredients together in a pot for a couple of minutes until heated through. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Chinese Mustard Sauce

* Makes 1 cup

¼ cup Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons Sweet Chile Sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger

1 tablespoon hand-shredded fresh cilantro

Blend the mustard with the chile sauce, rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, and ginger until smooth. Let it sit for 1 hour to let the flavors come together. Add the cilantro right before serving.

• Beef Chili with Ancho, Red Beans, and Chocolate • Beef Bourguignon • Osso Buco with Gremolata • Steamed Mussels with Saffron and Tomato • Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Peas • New England Clam Chowder • Hot and Sour Noodle Bowl with Prawns and Asparagus • Chicken Cacciatore • Maine Lobster Boil with Drawn Lemon Butter • Lamb Curry • Stir-Fried Beef with Tangerines, Green Beans, and Chiles • Arroz con Pollo with Salsa Verde

Close your eyes for a second and imagine walking into a house redolent with the aroma of beef bourguignon simmering away on the stove. Hours of slow braising create a dish with a deep red-wine flavor and the rich soft texture of practically melted beef that’s perfect and timeless. No wonder it has been around for what seems like forever.

This chapter is dedicated to the classic recipes made in one pot. Beautiful, truly delicious food that’s not messed around with; dishes like Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Peas, New England Clam Chowder, or Chicken Cacciatore, and Lamb Curry. Dishes that are great for company, but also as a Sunday afternoon project that will give you great leftovers to reheat during the week. These are deeply satisfying recipes. You won’t soon forget them.

Beef Chili with Ancho,

Red Beans, and Chocolate

4 hours

This recipe is a hybrid from different schools of thought. The texture is that of shredded beef, which is authentic Texan, but the flavor is the American Southwest. The dried chilies and the chocolate give this dish an amazing rich, smoky depth. If you’re a purist and think adding beans is a sacrilege, leave them out, but they do work really well here. This is truly one of the best dishes I’ve ever made.