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By Root 200 0

juice to give the filling some flavor; season with salt and pepper. In a large shallow bowl, dilute the sugar in 3 cups of hot water and give it a stir. One at a time, immerse the rice paper spring roll wrappers in the hot water for 10 seconds and then place on a damp towel. The rice paper is very delicate; don’t soak them any longer or they will break apart. Keep them covered while you work to prevent them from drying out and curling. To form the rolls, lay a rice paper wrapper on a flat surface. Grab a small amount of the cellophane noodle and vegetable mixture and lay it across the bottom third. Use less filling than you think you should; if you overstuff the wrapper it will tear. Carefully fold the bottom of the wrapper up to cover the filling. Fold in the left and right sides, then tuck and roll it over once. Lay 2 pieces of shrimp on top, then tuck and roll it over again. Lay 2 mint leaves on top and then tuck and roll it over to close the whole thing up like a tight cigar. The shrimp and mint leaves should show through the transparent rice paper. Arrange the finished rolls on a platter and cover with a damp towel.

In a blender, puree the rice wine vinegar, fish sauce, hot water, sugar, lime juice, garlic, and chili paste until combined. Pour into a serving bowl. Add the grated carrot and radish and mix. Serve the shrimp rolls with the sweet chili dipping sauce. These also make a terrific light lunch.

Marinated Raw Tuna

with Edamame Puree and

Wonton Crisps

1½ hours including marinating time

The wonton crisps can be made a day before and stored in an airtight container. They are good for snacking, so don’t eat them all. Edamame are green soybeans in their pods. The edamame puree will blow people; it has a creamy consistency with a hot wasabi punch, and it’s also a terrific dip. I find pinching the soybeans out of their pods somewhat therapeutic, kind of like popping bubble wrap.

Makes 40 pieces Makes 1½ cups puree

Wonton Crisps

½ cup sesame oil

40 wonton skins

Edamame Puree

1-pound package frozen soybeans in their pods

1 tablespoon wasabi powder or paste

1 teaspoon sea salt

Juice of 1 lemon

6 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons canola oil

Marinated Tuna

½ cup low-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons sake

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon red chili paste, such as sambal

1 pound sushi-quality tuna, such as ahi (yellowfin) or bluefin, cut into ¼-inch strips

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted, for garnish (see Note)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush a couple of cookie sheets with sesame oil. Lay the wonton skins side by side in a single layer. Brush the surface of the wontons with the oil. Bake for 15 minutes, until the wontons crisp up and the edges are golden. Using a spatula, remove the wonton crisps to a platter to let them cool.

Blanch the soybeans in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Drain, pinch the beans out of their pods, and put them in a food processor. Add the wasabi, salt, lemon juice, and water. Puree to break up the soybeans. Pour in the canola oil and puree until smooth. Refrigerate.

Whisk together the soy sauce, sake, brown sugar, and chili paste until the sugar dissolves. Arrange the sliced tuna in a single layer in a shallow dish. Pour the marinade over the tuna, cover, and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Don’t marinate the tuna any longer because it will start to “cook” and the texture will be mushy.

To put these little gems together, dollop a spoonful of the edamame puree on the wonton crisp and then lay a slice of tuna on the top. Garnish with a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds. Outstanding. Always the hit of the party.

Dates Wrapped in Bacon with Green Olive Sauce

Dates Wrapped in Bacon

with Green Olive Sauce

1 hour

This very Spanish-influenced tapa hits your tongue in three-stage flavor assault. First the smoky bacon, next the slightly salty green olive sauce, then the sweetness of the date. But the kicker is the almond inside—the little crunch that totally takes you by surprise. The combo is unique and classic, and I like to up