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3. Roll tablespoonfuls of the dough into 1-inch balls and place these about 2 inches apart on a large, nonstick, ungreased baking sheet. Refrigerate any remaining dough for a second baking.

4. Bake about 15 minutes, or until flattened, crackly, and set, but still somewhat soft. Cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes, then use a metal spatula to transfer the cookies gently to a wire rack to cool completely. Cool the baking sheet for at least 5 minutes before using it again. Repeat the baking process until all the dough is used, thereby making about 36 big soft cookies.

5. When the cookies have cooled, place the chocolate in a medium bowl. Heat the cream over medium-low heat in a small saucepan until bubbles form around the edges, about 2 minutes. Pour the warmed cream over the chocolate and stir until all the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Add the butter and beat with an electric mixer at low speed until cooled and slightly thickened. Do not overbeat or the chocolate will seize—beat only until the color just begins to lighten slightly (see Note).

6. Spread 2 tablespoons of this mixture on the flat bottom of one of the cookies; sandwich it with the bottom of a second cookie. Continue until you have made about 18 chocolate sandwiches.

* * *

NOTE: If the chocolate firms up too much as you fill the sandwiches, all is not lost. Simply roll about 2 tablespoons of the filling between your palms, like a chocolate truffle, then flatten it out with your fingers and sandwich this disk between 2 cookies, as indicated in the recipe.

Recommended storage

3 days at room temperature

Not recommended for freezing

Personalize It!

The best way to vary these cookies is to flavor the ganache. Increase the cream by 2 tablespoons; heat it until small bubbles form around the sides of the pan. Add 2 Earl Grey tea bags; cover and steep for 20 minutes. Remove the tea bags and heat the cream a second time, as directed, before pouring over the chocolate.

Or stir any of the following into the cream before heating it: 1 tablespoon Cognac, 1 tablespoon Sambuca, 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder, 1 teaspoon maple flavoring, 1 teaspoon rum flavoring, or 1/2 teaspoon mint extract.

CHOCOLATE TUILES

Here’s a crisp classic French cookie, reinvented with chocolate. Making tuiles requires a bit of a fuss, but they are an elegant, sophisticated dessert.

MAKES ABOUT 18 LARGE COOKIES

1/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting the baking sheet

1 ounce bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, grated (see Chocolate Grater, page 15)

1/4 cup slivered almonds

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

5 tablespoons cool, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus additional for greasing the baking sheet

1 tablespoon milk (regular, low-fat, or nonfat)

1 tablespoon crème de cacao

2 large egg whites, lightly beaten

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven; preheat the oven to 425°F. Butter and flour a large baking sheet; set aside. Whisk the flour and grated chocolate in a small bowl until well combined; set aside as well, preferably out of the kitchen’s heat.

2. Place the almonds and sugar in a food processor fitted with a chopping blade; pulse until finely ground, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

3. Place this almond mixture in a large bowl and cut in the butter, using a pastry cutter or two forks, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Then beat with an electric mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Beat in the milk and crème of cacao. Then beat in the egg whites in one-third increments, making sure each addition is incorporated before adding the next. Finally, remove the beaters and stir in the flour and chocolate mixture until moistened and evenly distributed.

4. Place 1 tablespoon of the batter on the prepared baking sheet, then use an offset spatula to spread it gently into a 2-inch circle. Repeat, making about 4 circles on the baking sheet.

5. Bake for about 6 minutes, or until soft but set. Cool on the baking sheet