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Variations: Add any of the following with the milk:

1 small plum tomato, seeded and chopped; ½ ounce purchased lump crabmeat; ½ teaspoon capers, drained and rinsed; ½ teaspoon chile powder; ¼ teaspoon mild or hot paprika; ¼ teaspoon curry powder; ¼ teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled or ½ teaspoon minced oregano leaves; ¼ teaspoon dried thyme or ½ teaspoon stemmed thyme; ¼ teaspoon garam masala; or ¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest.

You can also add ¼ ounce cheese, finely shredded or grated, per egg scrambled. (That’s about 1 tablespoon per egg.) Add the cheese late in the process, during the last 10 or 15 seconds, just so it melts without its fat falling out of suspension.

Three Things to Do with Scrambled Eggs

I. Breakfast Burritos

Heat flour tortillas in the microwave on high until warm, about 20 seconds, then lay them on your work surface. Add a single recipe of Scrambled Eggs to each tortilla as well as any of the following combinations before rolling the tortillas up:

1. Salsa, grated Monterey Jack, and chopped fresh cilantro

2. Warmed refried beans and seeded, cored, thinly sliced bell peppers

3. Tapenade and chopped fresh rosemary

4. Jelly and crème fraîche or sour cream

5. Chopped pitted black or green olives, sliced radishes, and warmed canned black beans

6. Guacamole and pickled or fresh sliced jalapeño chiles

7. Dijon mustard, sprouts, and some thinly sliced red onion

8. Corn kernels, scallions, and chopped parsley

9. Thawed frozen peas, chopped mint, and sour cream

10. A couple of slices of lox or smoked salmon and some chopped red onion

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Salt eggs when they come out of the pan. Salting early can make them rubbery.

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II. Scrambled Egg Sandwich

Toast 2 slices of whole wheat, rye, or oat bread, lightly butter them, and place a single recipe of scrambled eggs on one half. Top with tomato slices, lettuce leaves, and/or sliced or shredded Cheddar, queso blanco, Taleggio, Brie, or even blue cheese; close the sandwich.

To dress the sandwich up, add any fruit chutney, homemade or purchased; or any salsa, homemade or purchased. Or forgo the butter and use Tapenade, Hummus, Aïoli, Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto or Dijon mustard.

III. Migas

This Tex-Mex favorite is made by layering tortillas, scrambled eggs, and Chile con Queso on a plate. If you like, serve tortilla chips and some cooked sausage, preferably Mexican chorizo, on the side. Makes 4 servings

4 large corn or flour tortillas, warmed

A quadruple batch of Scrambled Eggs on section Breakfast and Brunch)

Chile con Queso (recipe follows)

½ cup homemade salsa or purchased salsa

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

Lay a warm tortilla on each serving plate. Top with a quarter of the eggs (that is, 2 eggs per person).

Pour ¼ cup Chile con Queso over the eggs, then top with 2 tablespoons salsa and 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro. Serve at once.

Chile con Queso

Double or triple this Mexican cheese sauce to make an appetizer dip. Makes a little more than 1 cup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup diced canned green chiles, drained (hot, medium, or mild)

¼ cup white wine or dry vermouth

6 ounces Cheddar, shredded

3 ounces Monterey Jack, shredded

2 ounces regular or low-fat cream cheese, cubed

About ½ cup (8 tablespoons) heavy cream, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, preferably white pepper

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Melt the butter in a large saucepan set over medium-low heat. The moment the foaming subsides, add the onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and chiles; cook for 20 seconds.

Pour in the wine or vermouth and scrape up any bits on the bottom of the pan. Continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to a glaze.

Add the cheese all at once, stir two or three times, and immediately remove the pan from