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Whisk in the milk in a slow, steady stream. Whisking all the while, let the mixture come to a simmer and cook slowly for 1 minute. (Be careful: the sauce can clump if you’re not paying close attention. If it does, you’ll have to start over.)

Whisk in the cream. Cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce bubbles.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cheese until it melts. Season with pepper, add the pasta, and toss.

Note: White pepper is for aesthetics. If you use black pepper, you’ll simply have dark specks in the sauce.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: fettuccine, tagliatelle, pappardelle

Dried: any round noodle

Variations: Add any of these herbs to the sauce with the cheese: 2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves, 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon leaves, 2 tablespoons stemmed thyme, or 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary leaves.

To make a garlicky cream sauce, mince 3 garlic cloves and soften them in the melted butter for 1 minute before whisking in the flour.

To make a roasted garlic cream sauce, roast 2 garlic heads, following the instructions on section Vegetables. Cool, then squeeze the roasted garlic into the oil before you add the flour, stirring it up so that it melts somewhat into the oil.

Six Sauces from Cream Sauce

Pasta Alfredo: Double the cheese, adding either 4 ounces grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or 2 ounces grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and 2 ounces grated Pecorino Romano.

Pasta Primavera: Add one 10-ounce bag frozen peas and carrots, thawed, or frozen mixed vegetables, thawed, with the cheese.

Pasta and Asparagus: Cut 1 pound pencil-thin asparagus spears into 1-inch pieces. Add these to the cream sauce with the cheese; let the pan stand off the heat for 3 minutes before adding the pasta.

Pasta, Ham, and Peas: Sauté 1 cup chopped ham in the butter before you add the flour. Stir one 10-ounce bag frozen peas into the sauce with the cream.

Pasta, Prosciutto, and Cream Sauce: Roughly chop ¼ pound thinly sliced prosciutto; briefly sauté this in the butter before you add the flour.

Pasta with Gorgonzola Sauce: Stir 2 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola into the sauce with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Pasta Carbonara

Although a traditional carbonara is not made with cream, its addition keeps the yolks from breaking and makes this classic easier to make at home. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

6 ounces bacon slices, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained

2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

2 ounces Asiago or Pecorino Romano, grated

2 large eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and frizzled, about 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon bits to a plate lined with paper towels; drain all but 1 tablespoon bacon fat from the skillet.

Place the skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté just until softened, about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Stir in the bacon bits and cream; remove the pan from the heat.

Add the cooked pasta, toss quickly, then add both kinds of cheese and the eggs all at once. Stir quickly and steadily with a wooden spoon—the eggs should emulsify into the cream and cheese without scrambling. Season with pepper.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: fettuccine, tagliatelle, Whole Wheat Pasta

Dried: any flat noodle

Pasta Arrabbiata

Here’s an Italian classic, but with less fat and a lot more spike. Clam juice gives it a richness that matches well with the heat. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 garlic cloves, minced

1½ to 2½ teaspoons red pepper flakes, or more to taste

One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes (3½ cups)

One 8-ounce bottle clam juice or ½ cup Fish Stock

¼ teaspoon salt

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained

¼ cup chopped parsley leaves

Heat a large