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to shape these, and because they will be long-baked in a casserole, we recommend using only dried pasta shells. Medium ones are preferable; they’re more elegant and the filling bakes evenly. (Small shells are not made for stuffing.) Cook them first according to the package instructions, then spoon the filling into the shells, stuffing them about two-thirds full; the filling should not overlap the edges. Place the shells, stuffing side up, in a lightly oiled large baking dish.

For dried manicotti: If you’re working with dried tubes, they must be cooked first, following the directions on the package and on section Pasta and Noodles. Once cooked, they should be rinsed and cooled somewhat. Either fill them using a small flatware spoon or place the filling in a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip and squeeze the filling into the tubes. In either case, get the filling into the middle of the tube, stuffing the center but tapering down to about half-filled at each end. Set the tubes as you fill them in a lightly oiled 13 × 9-inch baking dish.

Step 4: Sauce or bake the stuffed pasta.

For ravioli and cappelletti: Toss them with the sauce you’ve chosen, or lay them on individual serving plates and nap a little sauce over the top. Choose a simple oil or butter sauce, such as Sautéed Garlic, Walnut Sauce, or Butter and Fresh Herbs—or choose a simple tomato sauce like Marinara. You can also top them with Ragù Bolognese, Lamb Ragù, or Chicken Liver Ragù.

For shells and manicotti: By and large, choose a cooked tomato sauce, such as Pomodoro, Marinara, Fra Diavolo, or Puttanesca. Steer clear of chunky sauces, cream sauces, or ragùs. To bake them, preheat the oven to 350°F. Pour the sauce over the stuffed shapes in the baking dish, taking care to get it between them and onto the bottom of the pan. If desired, grate Parmigiano-Reggiano or mozzarella over the dish. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover the dish and continue baking until bubbling and hot (any cheese should be starting to melt), about 10 more minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes at room temperature before serving.

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Pasta Casseroles

Crowd-pleasers all, here are our revamps of the classics made with bigger flavors and unexpected twists.

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Macaroni and Four-Cheese

Casserole with Asparagus

and Prosciutto

This is a layered mac-and-cheese. Makes 8 servings

4 ounces Asiago, shredded

4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, shredded

4 ounces Pecorino Romano, shredded

4 ounces mozzarella, shredded

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus additional for the baking dish

½ pound thinly sliced prosciutto, chopped

12 ounces pencil-thin asparagus spears, peeled and cut into sections to match the length of the dried pasta you’ve selected(see Note)

1 large onion, chopped

¼ cup all-purpose flour

4 cups (1 quart) whole or low-fat milk (do not use fat-free), at room temperature

12 ounces dried ziti, rigatoni, or fusilli, cooked and drained

2 teaspoons dry mustard

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

Mix the cheeses in a large bowl and set aside.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 3-quart, high-sided, round baking dish; set it aside.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet. Add the prosciutto and cook, stirring often, until brown and crispy, about 3 minutes. Stir in the asparagus and set aside.

Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes, stirring frequently.

Sprinkle the flour over the onion, wait for 5 seconds, and cook, stirring constantly so the flour loses its raw taste, about 15 seconds. Do not brown.

Whisk in the milk in a slow, steady stream. Continue cooking, whisking all the while, until the mixture thickens and begins to bubble, about 3 minutes. Stir in the cooked pasta, dry mustard, and allspice, as well as the prosciutto and asparagus mixture.

Place one-quarter of the pasta and cream sauce in the baking dish; top with a quarter of the cheese. Spoon a third of the remaining