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Cold Sesame Noodles

This dish is often served first in New York Chinese restaurants—and is gobbled up in a flash (we love it so). Makes 4 servings

6 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

3 tablespoons Chinese toasted sesame paste, tahini, or natural-style creamy peanut butter

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or 1½ tablespoons Worcestershire sauce plus ½ tablespoon white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons chili oil or Asian red chili paste

2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried Chinese egg noodles, cooked and drained

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced

Whisk the sesame oil; sesame paste, tahini, or peanut butter; soy sauce; black vinegar or its substitute; chili oil or chili paste; sugar; and ginger in a large bowl.

Add the noodles and cucumber. Toss to coat and serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. If the noodles absorb too much sauce, refresh them with a splash of nice vinegar.

Lo Mein

This sauce is a combination of a Chinese stir-fry sauce and a Vietnamese black pepper sauce. By cooking the noodles in the sauce, they absorb the flavor and become irresistible. Makes 4 servings

1 tablespoon peanut oil

6 ounces medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), peeled and deveined

3 garlic cloves, minced

1½ cups chicken broth

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or 1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns, or more to taste

1 pound fresh round egg noodles or 12 ounces dried Chinese egg noodles, cooked and drained

1 cup mung bean sprouts

6 ounces smoked ham, shredded, or 6 ounces firm tofu, cubed

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Heat a large nonstick wok over medium-high heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then add the shrimp and garlic. Stir-fry just until the shrimp turns pink, about 1 minute.

Stir in the broth, soy sauce, Shaoxing or sherry, sugar, and black pepper. Bring to a simmer.

Add the noodles. Raise the heat to high and cook, tossing constantly, until the noodles absorb much of the sauce and what remains is a glaze, about 3 minutes.

Add the bean sprouts, ham or tofu, and the cilantro; cook, stirring gently but constantly, until heated through, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat, add the sesame oil, and toss gently.

Crispy Noodles with Pork

and Snow Peas

Here, a crunchy bed of noodles becomes a bed for an aromatic pork stir-fry. Of course, you could put any of the stir-fries in this book on top of this noodle bed—try the Orange Chicken Stir-Fry, the Fiery Shrimp or Scallop Cashew Stir-Fry, or the Vietnamese-Inspired Black Pepper Pork Stir-Fry. Makes 4 servings

12 dry mushrooms, preferably Chinese black mushrooms

Boiling water

1½ cups chicken broth

¼ cup oyster sauce

4 teaspoons Shaoxing or dry sherry

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

4 teaspoons cornstarch

2 teaspoons water

12 ounces fresh egg noodles or 8 ounces dried Chinese egg noodles, cooked and drained

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 cups snow peas (about 8 ounces)

3 tablespoons peanut oil

3 scallions, cut into 1-inch segments

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons peeled minced fresh ginger

6 ounces pork loin, cut into matchsticks

Place the mushrooms in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside to soak until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain and slice.

Whisk the broth, oyster sauce, Shaoxing or sherry, soy sauce, and sugar in a small bowl; set aside. Whisk the cornstarch and water in another small bowl; set aside as well. Finally, toss the cooked egg noodles with the toasted sesame oil in a medium bowl.

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the snow peas and blanch for 20 seconds. Drain in a colander set in the sink and refresh under cold water.

Heat a large nonstick wok over medium-high heat. Swirl in 2 tablespoons peanut oil, then add the noodles. Spread across the bottom of the wok and press into a cake; cook until brown, about 2 minutes. Flip and