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Add the noodles; stir-fry until coated in the sauce, about 30 seconds.

Add the scallions, soy sauce, and broth; return the scrambled egg to the wok. Toss and stir over the heat until the noodles are coated with the sauce, about 1 minute.

Pad Thai

A Thai classic, this quick stir-fry exemplifies Asian noodle dishes with its incredible adaptability. It can be varied endlessly to move it away from strict banality and into a new dish you can enjoy each time. Makes 4 servings

8 ounces dried rice noodles

3 tablespoons fish sauce

3 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons dry vermouth

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 large shallot, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), cleaned and deveined

1½ cups mung bean sprouts

2 medium scallions, sliced into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons chopped roasted unsalted peanuts

Lime wedges for garnish

Place the rice noodles in a large bowl and cover them with hot water, the hottest your tap can produce. Set aside to soften for 10 minutes, then drain.

Whisk the fish sauce, ketchup, honey, and vermouth in a small bowl; set aside.

Heat a large nonstick wok over medium-high heat. Swirl in the peanut oil; add the shallot, garlic, and red pepper flakes; and stir-fry for 30 seconds.

Add the shrimp; stir-fry until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Pour the prepared sauce into the pan and bring the mixture to a simmer.

Add the noodles; cook, tossing and stirring constantly, until they’ve absorbed the sauce, about 2 minutes.

Toss in the bean sprouts, scallions, and peanuts; stir-fry just until heated through, about 30 seconds. Serve with lime wedges on the side, which should be squeezed over the dish before eating.

Variations: Substitute 1/2 pound boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into thin strips, or ½ pound pork loin, cut into bite-sized pieces, for the shrimp.

Substitute 1 pound baby bok choy, thinly sliced, for the bean sprouts.

Add 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced into thin strips, with the shallot.

Shred 2 large carrots and add them with the shrimp.

Add ½ cup frozen corn kernels, thawed, with the bean sprouts.

Add ¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves with the bean sprouts.

Add ¼ cup dried currants with the bean sprouts.

Add 8 shredded basil leaves with the bean sprouts.

Scramble an egg in the wok before you begin the stir-fry. Swirl in 1 tablespoon peanut oil into the hot wok, then add 1 lightly beaten large egg; cook just until set, stirring almost constantly, about 1 minute. Transfer the scrambled egg to a small bowl, then continue with the stir-fry as directed. Add the scrambled egg to the dish with the bean sprouts.

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An Asian Noodle Primer

Chinese Egg Noodles. These come in as many widths and styles as Italian noodles. Fresh versions are found in the refrigerator case; check the package to avoid preservatives and colorings. Dried egg noodles are often wound into little nests before being packaged. In either case, the wheat used makes all the difference—egg noodles are slightly gummier and more slippery than Italian egg pasta. Cook them as you would dried Italian pasta, but stir carefully to uncoil the nests in the boiling water.

Dried Rice Noodles. Sometimes called rice sticks, these pale white noodles are often sold in clear bags. They come in a variety of widths; for these recipes, the choice is yours. Rice noodles must be soaked in hot water to soften them and to remove some of the starch, which can cloud the final dish.

Dried Rice Vermicelli. These are the Asian, rice-based equivalent of angel hair pasta, transparent and sold in long, wound skeins. They, too, must be soaked in hot water before use; once softened, stir well to uncoil.

Fresh Rice Noodles. These sheets of rolled rice pasta are sold on the street in Chinatown or at most Chinese markets. Highly perishable, they should be used the day of purchase. Slice the rolled sheets into 1-inch sections and toss them into a stir-fry.

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Beef Chow Fun

While this Chinese classic should