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Place the pan with the loaves in the oven, then throw the ice cubes onto the oven floor and shut the door. The steam will turn the bread crisp but keep it moist inside. Bake until lightly browned and hollow-sounding when tapped, about 20 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

To store: Cool to room temperature, then keep at room temperature, unwrapped, for 6 hours, or wrap in plastic wrap and store at room temperature for 1 day or freeze for up to 3 months.

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Bread and Flour

Bread flour is a high-gluten flour, made from milled hard wheat (as opposed to the softer, lower-gluten all-purpose flour). It also contains malted barley flour (to help yeast produce lots of carbon dioxide), and potassium bromate or vitamin C (which strengthens the flour’s glutens). Look for bread flour in the baking aisle; store for up to 6 months in a well-sealed plastic bag in a cool (about 70°F), dry place.

Each bread recipe has been developed using specific flours: whole wheat, bread, all-purpose, and rye. We have steered clear of esoteric flours found in specialty markets. Flour substitutions can result in gummy, flat, or tough bread.

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Yeast

Yeast is a living microorganism that produces carbon dioxide as it grows and multiplies—for which it needs food (sugar or other starches), moisture, and warmth. Although there are hundreds of kinds of yeast floating in the air around us, two are used in food preparation, baker’s yeast and brewer’s yeast.

Brewer’s yeast has little place in the modern kitchen, but baker’s yeast is available as either active dry or quick-rising. Our recipes are made with active dry yeast. It can be found in the baking aisle or the refrigerator case in ¼-ounce packets. Should you buy it in bulk at a health-food store or baking-supply store, use 2 ½ teaspoons in place of the familiar packet. If you do use quick-rising yeast, the rising time may be cut in half.

Baker’s yeast is also sold in cakes. These have a higher moisture content, are quite perishable, and must be refrigerated. They should be broken apart and stirred into the warm liquids. One .06-ounce cake is the same as one ¼-ounce packet of dry yeast.

Finally, instant yeast, a convenience product, need not be proofed (that is, turned foamy) in a warm liquid. Instead, it’s mixed directly into the dry ingredients. Use 2½ teaspoons in place of every ¼-ounce packet. You must also include whatever liquid was designated to proof the yeast; add it—still warm—with the other wet ingredients.

All baker’s yeast has a shelf life. Check the expiration date on the packet. Cake yeast lasts only a week or so; dry yeast lasts longer, but not indefinitely. Dry yeast of any variety can be stored in the freezer (which can extend its shelf life by up to 6 months), but it should be at room temperature when you use it in a recipe.

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Brioche

This may be the ultimate French bread: buttery, light, a little cakey, and very good with jam. The eggs must be at room temperature; leave them on the counter for 15 minutes. Makes 1 loaf or 8 rolls

One ¼-ounce package active dry yeast or 2½ teaspoons active dry yeast

1 tablespoon sugar

½ cup warm whole milk, between 105°F and 115°F

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus additional for greasing the pan

1 teaspoon salt

2¾ to 3¼ cups bread flour, plus additional for dusting

1 large egg yolk, whisked with 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl

Sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the milk in a small bowl. Set aside until bubbling and frothy, about 4 minutes. (If the mixture does not froth, start over—the milk’s temperature was off or the yeast was bad.)

Meanwhile, whisk the whole eggs, melted butter, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl until fairly smooth and creamy.

Stir the yeast mixture into the egg mixture, then stir in 1½ cups flour.

If you’re working with a stand mixer: Attach the