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Variations: Add 1 minced garlic clove with the scallions.

Substitute 1 large shallot, thinly sliced into rings, for the scallions.

Substitute Emmentaler or Swiss for the Gruyère.

Add a few dashes of hot red pepper sauce with the cheese.

Irish Soda Bread

Here’s a streamlined version of this bakery favorite. Makes 1 small round loaf

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting

½ cup raisins, chopped

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon caraway seeds, crushed in a mortar with a pestle or on a sheet of wax paper, under a heavy saucepan

1 tablespoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup whole or low-fat buttermilk (do not use fat-free)

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Mix the flour, raisins, sugar, caraway seeds, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the buttermilk until a fairly thick but still crumbly batter starts to form.

Lightly dust the work surface and your hands with flour. Turn the dough out onto it and gather it into a ball, working the dough just a little to form the shape without its getting sticky. Press down gently so that you have a rounded loaf, as if a third of the ball has sunk into the work surface.

Use a sharp knife or a clean razor blade to make an “X” in the top of the dough, cutting down about ½ inch into the dough. Transfer the loaf to a baking sheet.

Bake until hollow when tapped, until golden but firm, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing.

To store: Cool to room temperature and seal in a plastic bag for up to 1 day. Not recommended for freezing.

Variations: Substitute fennel seeds or sesame seeds for the caraway seeds.

Substitute dried currants, dried blueberries, or chopped dried strawberries for the raisins.

Sprinkle the top of the loaf with 1 teaspoon kosher salt before baking.

Place about a teaspoon of unsalted butter on each quarter of the bread’s top before baking.

Corn Bread

The debate may rage on about whether or how much sugar should go in corn bread, but we prefer the taste of honey. Makes about 6 servings

¾ cup yellow cornmeal

2/3 cup all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting the pan

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

1 large egg, at room temperature

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus additional butter for greasing the pan

¾ cup regular or low-fat buttermilk (do not use fat-free)

2 tablespoons honey

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter and flour an 8-inch square pan; set aside. Whisk the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl; set aside as well.

Lightly whisk the egg in a medium bowl, then whisk in the buttermilk, melted butter, and honey until fairly smooth.

Use a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to fold the egg mixture into the cornmeal mixture, just until the dry ingredients are thoroughly moistened. Spoon out and spread into the prepared pan.

Bake until golden at the edges and a little puffed, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the corn bread comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Cool on a wire rack before slicing into squares to serve.

To store: Cool completely, slice into squares, and store in a sealable bag for up to 2 days.

Variations: Add any or all of the following with the buttermilk: 2 ounces finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Cheddar; ½ cup corn kernels; 1 or 2 fresh jalapeño chiles, seeded and chopped; 2 teaspoons chili powder; or 1 teaspoon chopped oregano leaves.

Corn Tortillas

Corn tortillas are amazingly simple to make: just three ingredients. Makes 12 tortillas

2 cups masa harina

1 teaspoon salt

About 1 cup water

Mix the masa harina and salt in a medium bowl; stir in ½ cup water, then continue stirring in more water in 1-tablespoon increments until a soft dough forms (you’ll probably use a little less than 1 cup water in all, but the amount actually used depends entirely on the day’s humidity and the moisture content