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Salt to taste

Whisk the flour, paprika, and pepper in a medium bowl, then pour this mixture onto a large plate or a large sheet of wax paper.

Whisk the buttermilk and egg in a shallow baking dish or a pie plate.

Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of a large, high-sided sauté pan or a large skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and pour in enough oil to come about 2 inches up the sides of the pan. Heat until the temperature registers 350°F. During the rest of the cooking, be on the lookout to adjust the heat so the oil’s temperature remains constant.

Roll the chicken pieces in the seasoned flour, then dip them in the buttermilk mixture. Shake off the excess and roll them a second time in the seasoned flour.

Slip the pieces bone side up into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown, about 6 minutes.

Turn the pieces with metal tongs and continue frying until crisp and golden on all sides, about 6 more minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and sprinkle with salt. Let stand for a couple of minutes before serving.

Variations: Add any of the following to the flour mixture: 2 teaspoons dried parsley, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 1 teaspoon onion powder, ½ teaspoon garlic powder, or ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg.

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Remember that salt in an ingredient list is mostly a matter of suggestion, particularly if it’s added at the end of the cooking. Always adjust the amount to your taste.

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Pecan-Crusted Oven-Fried Chicken

This crunchy crust was inspired by the Texas combination of pecans and cumin. Makes 6 to 8 servings

3 tablespoons chopped pecan pieces

2 teaspoons celery seeds

6 tablespoons plain dried bread crumbs

2 teaspoons paprika

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon onion powder

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

One 4-to 5-pound chicken, giblets and neck removed, cut into 9 pieces

Salt to taste

Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

Grind the pecan pieces and celery seeds in a spice grinder, mini-food processor, or clean coffee grinder until finely ground but not a paste.

Whisk the pecan mixture in a medium bowl with the bread crumbs, paprika, cumin, onion powder, nutmeg, and pepper. Pour onto a large plate or a large sheet of wax paper. Pour the milk into a baking dish or a shallow pie plate.

Slip the chicken pieces into the milk, coating them well. Then immediately press them in the bread-crumb mixture and turn to coat, making sure the spices stick. Place the pieces skin side up on the prepared baking sheet.

Bake until golden brown, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast and the thigh without touching the bone registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation), 35 to 45 minutes. Season with salt the moment the chicken is out of the oven, then let the pieces stand at room temperature on the baking sheet for 5 minutes (do not move so the crust can set).

Variations: If you want extra-crispy oven-fried chicken, spray each piece with a light coating of nonstick spray after it’s been dipped into the bread-crumb mixture.

You can also make skinless oven-fried chicken. The crust will be thicker if you use buttermilk, rather than regular milk.

Coconut Chicken Curry

Serve this fiery farrago with bowls of jasmine rice and diced peeled mango for garnish. Makes 8 servings

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 large onions, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 tablespoon turmeric

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons dry mustard

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Up to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1½ cups regular or reduced-fat coconut milk

½ cup water

One 4-to 5-pound chicken, giblets and neck removed, cut into 9 pieces, skin removed

¼ cup cilantro leaves, chopped