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Slowly pour the wine into the pot, stirring all the while. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly to get any browned bits off the pot’s bottom and to keep the flour from sticking. Once simmering, return the thighs and any accumulated juices to the pot.

Cover and bake until the chicken is very tender, almost falling off the bone, stirring once in a while, about 1½ hours.

Variations: Add 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced, and/or 2 carrots, thinly sliced with the leeks. Increase the wine to 3½ cups.

Add 2 or 3 minced garlic cloves with the mushrooms.

Tuck a couple of bay leaves into the sauce before you return the thighs to the pot. Discard the bay leaves before serving.

Creamy Chicken Fricassee: After the casserole has baked, remove the thighs to a large serving platter or serving bowl and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. Set the pot over medium heat and stir in ½ cup heavy cream. Bring the sauce to a simmer; cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Pour the cream sauce over the thighs.

Jerk Chicken Thighs and Plantains

“Jerk” is Jamaican for spicy, but you can control the bang in this oven-bake. Use very ripe plantains, ones with almost black skins. Makes 6 servings

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

1/8 to ½ teaspoon cayenne to taste

3 pounds bone-in skinless chicken thighs

Canola oil for greasing the baking dish

2 medium onions, chopped

1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

2 ripe medium plantains, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into ½-inch sections

1¼ cups canned drained diced tomatoes

1 cup chicken broth

Grind the chili powder, thyme, cinnamon, ginger, salt, allspice, garlic powder, and cayenne in a spice grinder, cleaned coffee grinder, or mini-food processor until powdery. Massage this mixture into the chicken thighs and set them aside at room temperature for 5 minutes.

Position the rack in the center of the oven; preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 13 × 9-inch baking pan.

Mix the onions, bell pepper, plantains, tomatoes, and broth in a large bowl, then spread them into the prepared pan. Place the thighs on top.

Cover and bake until the plantains are soft and the chicken is quite tender, almost falling off the bone, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Chicken Pot Pie with a Sour Cream

Biscuit Topping

Here’s the ultimate winter warmer. Work quickly to make the biscuit topping once the chicken stew has been prepared. Makes 6 servings

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped

1½ pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into ½-inch pieces

1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup chicken broth

1/3 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

¼ cup regular or low-fat sour cream (do not use fat-free)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 tablespoons chopped chives or the chopped green portion of a small scallion

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large, oven-safe, high-sided skillet or sauté pan. Add the onion, celery, and carrots; cook, stirring frequently, until soft and aromatic, about 3 minutes.

Add the chicken and cook, stirring frequently, until a little browned, about 4 minutes.

Sprinkle 2 tablespoons flour over the chicken and vegetables, cook undisturbed for 15 seconds, then stir well and cook for another 15 seconds, just so the flour loses its raw taste but before it starts to brown.

Slowly pour in the broth, vermouth