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IV. Sourdough Sweet Potato Dressing

This easy dressing would be a welcome side for a turkey coated with the Southwestern Wet Rub. Makes 10 to 12 servings

1 tablespoon almond or canola oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing the pan

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely sliced

1½ pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and diced into ½-inch cubes

6 tablespoons slivered almonds

4 ounces cremini or white button mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced

1 tart green apple, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and chopped

½ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

One 1-pound day-old sourdough loaf, crust removed and discarded, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 teaspoons rubbed sage

2 teaspoons dried thyme

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ cups chicken broth

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter a 13 × 9-inch baking dish and set it aside.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the almond or canola oil, then 1 tablespoon butter. Once the butter’s melted, add the onion, celery, sweet potatoes, and almonds; cook, stirring often, until the onion softens, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

Return the skillet to medium heat; add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Once the butter’s melted, add the mushrooms and apple. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms give off their liquid, about 3 minutes.

Stir in the wine or vermouth, raise the heat to medium-high, and continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to a thin glaze, about 4 minutes.

Stir the contents of the skillet into the bowl with the onion mixture. Also stir in the bread cubes, sage, thyme, salt, and pepper. Add the broth and stir just until moistened, not until the bread starts to break down. Spread into the prepared pan and cover with aluminum foil.

Bake for 25 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until firm and lightly browned, about 20 more minutes.

Variations: Substitute chopped walnut or pecan pieces for the almonds. Also substitute walnut oil for the almond oil, if using.

Substitute shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps thinly sliced, for the cremini.

Omit the apple; add 1 large zucchini, shredded through the large holes of a box grater, with the broth.

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Dressing into Stuffing

Dressing (cooked separately) gives you more crunch per bite than stuffing (cooked in the bird). However, either of the above dressings can be turned into a stuffing. Make it up to the point in which you spread it in the pan, but use only half the broth called for. Place the mixture in a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate until cool, about 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Rub the turkey with the Italian Wet Rub, or Southwestern Wet Rub. Do not stuff the turkey’s large cavity with onion and bay leaves as directed; instead, stuff the cooled dressing into the large cavity. The mixture will expand as it bakes, so leave about a ½-inch headspace in the cavity and don’t pack the dressing down. Any additional dressing should be moistened with ¼ cup broth and baked in a small baking dish alongside the bird until lightly browned, about 20 minutes or so.

Truss the bird as directed, then roast, allowing at least 30 additional minutes, maybe as much as 1 hour, for the stuffed bird to come to the desired temperature. A meat thermometer inserted into the center of the stuffing in the cavity should read 160°F. Remove the stuffing from the bird before carving.

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Barbecued Turkey with Three Dry Rubs

For the barbecue, cook the bird over indirect heat—that is, not directly over the heat source or the coals, but to the side. Because of this slow-roasting method, you needn’t brine the turkey. Dry rubs get the skin extra-crispy. Makes 10 to 12 servings

1 tablespoon canola oil, plus additional for the grill grate

One 12-to 14-pound turkey, giblets and neck removed

One of the three dry rubs that follow

2 medium onions, cut into quarters

2 celery ribs, cut into 3-inch segments

Butcher’s twine

Massage the canola oil into