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Crumble in the turkey and cook, stirring frequently, until it loses its raw, pink color, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatillos and continue cooking, stirring often, until they soften and the mixture resembles a thick salsa, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, pour its contents into a large bowl, and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.

Stir in the sour cream, chopped cilantro, chopped chiles, and the reserved 2 tablespoons chopped onion; set aside.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush the tortillas with a little oil on both sides and stack them into three piles. Wrap each stack in aluminum foil and place the packets in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove and unwrap, being careful of the heat.

Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Lightly oil a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Spread each of the tortillas on one side with an even coating of the goat cheese.

Build the casserole by placing 6 tortillas cheese side up across its bottom. Top with a third of the turkey mixture. Lay another 6 tortillas, cheese side up on top of the turkey mixture, then top with half the remaining turkey. Lay a final layer of the remaining tortillas over the dish, then top with the remaining turkey mixture. Top the entire dish with the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Bake until lightly browned and bubbling, about 45 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Variations: For a less rich casserole, substitute thickened and drained low-fat or fat-free yogurt for the sour cream. Line a colander or fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth, add 2½ cups yogurt, and place over a large bowl. Set aside in the refrigerator to drain for 6 hours, until the yogurt is moderately thick.

Substitute 2 ounces Monterey Jack, grated, and 2 ounces Asiago, grated, for the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Turkeys Climbing a Tree

Here’s a turkey rendition of Ants Climbing a Tree, a classic Szechuan stir-fry. Bean thread noodles, sometimes called “glass noodles,” are available in the Asian aisle of almost all markets. Makes 4 servings

4 ounces bean-thread noodles

Boiling water

8 ounces ground turkey

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce

1½ tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon Shaoxing or dry sherry

1½ teaspoons sesame oil, preferably toasted sesame oil

½ cup chicken broth

½ teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon peanut oil

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon Asian red chili sauce

Place the bean-thread noodles in a medium bowl and cover with boiling water. Set aside to soak for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, crumble the turkey into a medium bowl, then stir in 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon Shaoxing or dry sherry, and 1 teaspoon sesame oil until the turkey is evenly coated. Set aside.

Whisk the broth and sugar with the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1½ tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry, and ½ teaspoon sesame oil in a small bowl; set aside as well.

Heat a large wok, preferably nonstick, or a large, high-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then add the scallions, garlic, and ginger. Stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the chili sauce and stir-fry for 15 seconds.

Add the ground turkey and stir-fry until well browned, about 5 minutes.

Add the noodles and the reserved broth mixture. Stir well, then bring the entire mixture to a simmer, tossing constantly. Cook for 2 minutes, just until the sauce is mostly absorbed by the noodles.

Variations: Add any number of vegetables with the scallions: 10 ounces broccoli florets; 10 ounces cauliflower florets; 6 ounces fresh snow peas; 1 large zucchini or cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-moons.

Fried Rice with Ground Turkey

Here’s a renovated take-out favorite, made with ground turkey and nutty brown rice. Makes 4 servings

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

3 medium scallions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons