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By Root 4106 0

does not insulate them from the cold). But the meat below the fat is not well marbled. If the fat is rendered, you’re left with luscious, succulent meat.

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Roast Duck with Five Wet Rubs

Steaming the duck before roasting it renders out a lot of the fat, leaving you with a moist but less fatty dinner. Makes 4 to 6 servings

One 5-to 6-pound duck, giblets and neck removed

One of the five spice rubs that follow

Split the duck in half, tip to tail. (If you like, have your butcher do this for you.) Cut off any excess skin at either end, removing any extra fat as well. Prick the skin and fat all over with a fork, taking care not to prick down to the meat.

Place about an inch of water in a large Dutch oven or a large roasting pan with a cover. Place a roasting rack in the pan (with feet high enough so that the rack’s mesh or slats do not sit in the water). Place the duck halves skin side down on the rack, then set the pan over high heat and bring the water to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°F.

Remove the duck from the Dutch oven or roaster; discard any fat and liquid in the pan. Brush the spice mixture over the skin on both halves.

Place a wire rack over a large lipped baking sheet. (You can use a wire rack for cooling cookies, provided it has feet to lift it up a bit and those feet are not covered in plastic or rubber.) Place the ducks on the rack skin side up. Roast, uncovered, until brown and tender, until the wing joints move freely and a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the thigh without touching the bone registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation), 2 to 2½ hours. Cool on the rack for 5 minutes before transferring to a carving board.

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Most ducks sold to North American consumers are Long Island ducks, a breed of mallards. Also known as Peking ducks, these white-feathered, big-breasted fowl all trace their heritage from four mallards imported from China in 1873. Long Island has long since been eaten up by residential real estate; almost all Long Island ducks are now raised in Wisconsin and Indiana.

By contract, muscovy ducks come from Latin and South America. They have been crossbred with mallards and are sometimes found at high-end markets. The meat is less fatty, gamier, more like wild ducks. Muscovies are smaller than Long Islands or mallards; if you substitute one, cut the cooking time by about one third.

Despite the fat under the skin, there’s good news about ducks. The USDA recognizes no hormones suitable for farm-raised duck and allows no chemical additives. What’s more, the agency has instituted fairly stringent requirements for antibiotic regimens, legalizing only a few and requiring that ducks be off them long before slaughter.

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Five Wet Rubs for Duck

Mix any of these together in a small bowl.

1. Provençal Rub

2 tablespoons dry vermouth or dry white wine

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon minced oregano leaves or ½ teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon salt

2. New England Rub

2 tablespoons frozen cranberry juice concentrate, thawed

1 tablespoon walnut oil

2½ teaspoons minced sage leaves or 1 teaspoon rubbed sage

1 teaspoon salt

3. Chinese Rub

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sesame oil, preferably toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

4. East Indian Rub

2 tablespoons frozen unsweetened apple juice concentrate, thawed

1 tablespoon mustard oil

1 teaspoon curry powder

1 teaspoon salt

5. Fennel Rub

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Braised Duck with Shallots, Ginger, and Orange Juice

Braising a duck yields an incredibly tender bird, just as good the next day for picnic fare. Makes 4 to 6 servings

One 5-to 6-pound duck, giblets and neck removed and reserved, cut into 9 pieces like a chicken, all excess fat and skin removed

2 medium shallots, chopped

6 garlic