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Place one half of the fillet on your work surface with the side down that would have had the skin on it. Spread one of the two fillings evenly over the fillet, mounding it toward a strip in the center; also leave a 1-inch border at each end. Top with the second half of the fillet, this time with the side that would have had the skin facing up. Tie together in four places with butcher’s twine, pulling the sides together as well as you can to cover the filling. Make sure the ends are closed as well. Rub the outside with the olive oil. Set in a medium roasting pan.

Bake until the filling bubbles and the meat flakes at its thin ends when gently scraped with a fork, about 30 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before slicing off the twine and carving the roast into thick, round slices.

Feta Filling

One 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry of all moisture

8 ounces feta, crumbled

2 tablespoons chopped dill fronds or 1 tablespoon dried dill

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Mash the cheese in a medium bowl with a fork, then stir in the dill, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to create a gooey mixture.

Crab Filling

8 ounces lump crabmeat, picked over for shell and cartilage

1 ounce Asiago or Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

¼ cup olive oil

¼ cup plain dried bread crumbs

1 medium shallot, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons chopped oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl, taking care not to break up the crabmeat but getting the bread crumbs thoroughly moistened and distributed in the mixture.

Salmon Roast for Crowds

Double this roast by purchasing two 2-pound fillets; do not slice them in half. Rather, double the amount of filling and top one with the other, so the sides that would have had the skin are both facing out. Roast about 45 minutes.

Salsa Salmon

Salmon is best when it’s slightly underdone, with a pink, warm center. One way to tell is to use a fork to flake the meat. Another is to insert a flatware knife into the meat at the thickest part, hold the knife there for 5 seconds, then touch the side of the blade to your lips: it should feel warm, not cool or hot. In this recipe, roasting salmon under fresh salsa keeps the meat incredibly moist. Makes 4 servings

Canola oil for the baking sheet

One 2-pound king (or chinook), coho (or silver), sockeye (or red), or Atlantic salmon fillet, skin on or off, left whole or cut the short way into 4 equal pieces

2 medium tomatoes, quartered

1 medium shallot, quartered

1 serrano chile, halved and seeded

1 garlic clove, halved

2 teaspoons lime juice

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Lightly oil a large baking sheet or roasting pan. Place the salmon fillet or fillets skin side down (or former skin side down) in the pan. Set aside.

Place the tomatoes, shallot, serrano chile, garlic, lime juice, chili powder, cumin, salt, pepper, and hot red pepper sauce in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Pulse until coarsely ground, like a chunky salsa. If you prefer an even chunkier salsa, chop all these vegetables by hand; some will remain crunchy after baking.

Spoon over the exposed salmon flesh, spreading it to the sides. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Take the salmon out of the refrigerator while the oven preheats.

Uncover and bake until hot, until the meat can be pulled into opaque, moist layers with a fork, about 12 minutes for individual pieces or 25 minutes if the fillet has been left whole. Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving.

Variation: Use about 1½ cups of any salsa you like, purchased or