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Whisk in the vinegar and sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the sauce to a simmer. Toss in the oregano and pepper; cook, stirring once in a while, until reduced to a glaze, about 3 minutes.

Slip the steaks back into the pan; cover and set aside off the heat for 1 minute to reheat.

Coconut-Crusted Salmon Steaks

The East Indian–influenced spice paste caramelizes over the rich steaks, creating a luxurious dish. Makes 4 servings

2 serrano chiles, halved and seeded

2 medium shallots, roughly chopped

One 2-inch section peeled fresh ginger, cut into 4 pieces

3 tablespoons coconut milk

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

Four 1½-to 2-inch-thick salmon steaks (see Note)

Place the chiles, shallots, ginger, coconut milk, lemon juice, tomato paste, dry mustard, brown sugar, salt, and cloves in a mini-food processor, a regular food processor fitted with the chopping blade, or a blender. Process or blend until paste-like, scraping down the sides of the canister as necessary. Alternatively, grind the spices and aromatics in a mortar with a pestle, adding the liquids slowly to incorporate as you grind.

Spread the mixture evenly over the salmon steaks. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

Preheat the broiler. Line the broiler pan or a large baking sheet with aluminum foil to make cleanup easier. Transfer the salmon steaks to the prepared pan or sheet, taking care not to knock off the paste.

Broil about 6 inches from the heat source until very aromatic and somewhat firm, about 5 minutes. Turn and continue broiling until very browned, about 4 minutes for rare steaks, 6 minutes for medium, and 8 minutes for well done. You can also check the doneness by flaking the side of one steak with a fork. Let stand at room temperature for a couple of minutes before serving.

To grill the salmon steaks: Generously oil the grill grate, then set it 4 to 6 inches over a high heat or a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed. Add the coated steaks directly over the heat, cover, and grill for 10 to 14 minutes.

Note: Some markets now sell salmon steaks made from boneless, skinless salmon fillets, wrapped in netting so they look like more traditional salmon steaks. These should be cooked about 1 minute less per side.

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For other tuna ideas, consider Tuna Tartare on Gaufrettes, a Fresh Tuna Salad, or Tuna Burgers.

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Swordfish Kabobs with Walnut Paprika Barbecue Sauce

Swordfish is meaty enough to be skewered and topped with a barbecue sauce of walnuts, paprika, and beer. Makes 4 servings

1½ pounds swordfish steaks, skin removed, cut into sixteen 2-inch cubes

Walnut Paprika Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

Canola oil for the grill grate or broiler pan

12 white button or cremini mushrooms, cleaned

4 zucchini, cut into 2-inch sections

4 long metal skewers; or four 12-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water 20 minutes, then drained

Place the swordfish cubes in a large baking dish. Pour Walnut Paprika Barbecue Sauce over them; toss gently to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes but no more than 3 hours, tossing occasionally.

Preheat a gas grill for high-heat cooking or prepare a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Generously oil the grill grate. Alternatively, line a broiler pan with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler; generously oil the foil.

Remove the swordfish cubes from the barbecue sauce, reserving the sauce. Skewer 4 cubes, 3 mushrooms, and 4 pieces of zucchini onto each metal skewer, alternating vegetables and fish. If using bamboo skewers, place 2 pieces of fish, 2 pieces of zucchini, and 1 or 2 mushrooms on each skewer; wrap the exposed ends of bamboo skewers in aluminum foil to prevent burning.

To grill: Place the kabobs on the grate directly over the heat. Cover and grill until the fish is firm, 8 to 10 minutes, turning once and mopping frequently