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To grill:

Lightly grease the grill rack with olive oil. Preheat a gas grill for medium heat or build a medium-heat coal bed in the center of a charcoal grill’s coal grate.

Place the grate 4 to 6 inches from the heat source or coal bed. Place the trout on the rack directly over the heat source or the coal bed. Alternatively, oil a grill basket and place the trout in it.

Cover and grill until browned and firm, about 5 minutes. Turn with a large metal spatula, cover, and continue cooking until the meat flakes with a fork at its thinnest part, 4 to 6 more minutes. Let stand off the heat for 5 minutes before serving.

To oven-roast:

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, oven-safe skillet or two skillets.

Slip the trout into the skillet or skillets; cook for 3 minutes. Flip, then place the pan(s) in the oven and roast until the meat at the thin end of the trout flakes when gently pulled with a fork, 8 to 10 minutes. Let the trout stand in the skillets at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving.

Variations: Substitute chives for the parsley or thyme; or substitute tarragon for the rosemary.

Sprinkle a few dashes of hot red pepper sauce over the herbs before you close the trout.

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Fish Burgers and Cakes

The trick is neither to lard them with fat nor to weigh them down with bread crumbs. Instead, bind them with just enough spices and herbs to let the fresh taste of the fish or shellfish come through. They’re delicate, so take care when flipping them or transferring from the pan or grill to the plate.

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Tuna Burgers

To heighten these delicate, Asian flavors, dice the tuna into even cubes, each one no more than ¼ inch. Serve these burgers on buns with a little Wasabi Mayonnaise. Makes 4 burgers (can be doubled or tripled)

1½ pounds tuna steak

3 tablespoons chopped chives or the finely minced green part of a scallion

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon canola or peanut oil

Pat the tuna steak dry with paper towels, then cut the steak into ¼-inch-thick slices. Dice these into small ¼-inch cubes. Remove any tough, white nerve fibers.

Place the tuna in a bowl and gently stir in the chives, ginger, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper. (The dish can be made ahead up to this point; cover and refrigerate for up to 8 hours.)

Form the mixture into 4 patties; pat until firm.

To fry: Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then slip the burgers into the pan. Cook until well browned, about 2 minutes, pressing down lightly with a metal spatula to compact once or twice. Gently flip the burgers and continue cooking until the outside of the burgers is no longer translucent and browned, about 2 minutes.

To grill: Preheat a gas grill to high heat or build a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Generously oil the grill grate, then place it 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. Add the burgers and grill until browned and a little firm to the touch, about 4 minutes, turning once.

Salmon Burgers

Fresh salmon makes a much better burger than canned salmon. Pulse the salmon in the food processor only until it looks like ground turkey, not a paste. Have your fishmonger skin the salmon for you, or see section Appetizers, Nibbles, and Snacks for tips on how to do it yourself. Serve these patties on hamburger buns with the standard burger condiments, or in pita pockets with a creamy dressing, shredded lettuce, and diced tomato. Makes 4 burgers (can be doubled or tripled)

1 pound boneless skinless salmon fillet, cut into 3 pieces

1 large egg white, lightly beaten in a small bowl

1/3 cup plain dried bread crumbs

1 medium scallion, green part only, minced

2 tablespoons homemade mayonnaise or purchased regular or low-fat mayonnaise (do not use fat-free)

2 teaspoons chopped