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A road map for Oven-Roasted Shrimp or Scallops

This may be the quickest way to cook these favorites. The oil is slowly infused with the herbs, then a simple dressinglike sauce is made after the shrimp or scallops have cooked. Makes 4 servings

Place

¼ cup olive oil

in a 13 × 9-inch baking dish or a 10-inch square baking dish.

Add one or two of the following to the baking dish:

12 thyme sprigs

8 parsley sprigs

8 dried red Asian chiles

6 oregano sprigs

6 dill fronds

Four 4-inch rosemary sprigs

4 garlic cloves, slivered

A handful of chives

Position the rack in the center of the oven and place the baking dish on the rack. Now set the oven to 450°F and let it preheat for 15 minutes with the dish in the oven so the aromatics slowly infuse the oil.

Remembering that the dish is very hot, stir in one of the following:

1½ pounds medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), peeled and deveined

1½ pounds cleaned sea scallops, each cut into 2 disks

1½ pounds cleaned bay scallops

Cook until the shrimp are pink and firm or the scallops are opaque, about 4 minutes for bay scallops, 5 minutes for the halved sea scallops, and 7 minutes for shrimp, tossing a couple of times.

Remove the hot baking dish from the oven and stir in:

1 teaspoon kosher or coarse-grained sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Also stir in one of the following:

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons lemon juice

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

¼ cup orange juice

¼ cup dry white wine

Toss well, scraping up any browned bits and allowing the liquid to evaporate a little from the pan’s heat; then serve at once.

Shrimp or Scallops in Spicy Tomato Sauce

Have lots of bread on hand to slurp up every drop of this sauce. Serve the dish over Perfect Mashed Potatoes, Root Vegetable Mash, polenta, or spaghetti. Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 to 4 small fresh chiles, such as serranos or Thai hots, seeded and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

3½ cups canned diced tomatoes with their juice

2 pounds medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), peeled and deveined; 2 pounds cleaned sea scallops, each cut into two disks; or 2 pounds cleaned bay scallops

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then the shallot. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 20 seconds (do not let the garlic brown).

Add the chiles, thyme, and fennel seeds. Stir well, cook for 10 seconds, then pour in the tomatoes and all their juice. Bring the mixture to a simmer; then reduce the heat to low and cook, uncovered, until the tomatoes have broken down and the sauce has started to thicken, about 10 minutes.

Raise the heat to medium and add the shrimp or scallops. Stir well and cook until the shrimp are pink and firm or the scallops are opaque, about 2 minutes for scallops and 4 minutes for shrimp. Season with salt and pepper.

Variations: For a smoother sauce, use crushed tomatoes.

For a thicker sauce, add 1 tablespoon tomato paste with the canned tomatoes.

For a more complex taste, add 1 teaspoon anchovy paste with the chiles.

For a tangier sauce, add 1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar with the shrimp or scallops.

Shrimp or Scallop Rogan Josh

This Kashmir curry is usually made with lamb, but sweet shrimp or scallops make a nice contrast to the spicy heat. Pure chili powder is made only from ground chiles—look for it in Southwestern markets or make your own by grinding a seeded and stemmed dried New Mexican red chile in a spice grinder. Makes 4 servings

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon pure chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon saffron, crumbled

1 pound yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon golds, cut into