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For an even richer dish, stir ¼ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, or Grana Padano into the cream sauce just before serving.

Basil-Seared Scallops with Yellow Pepper Relish

For this dish, a seasoned cast-iron skillet can get smoking hot, but the scallops won’t stick. If you don’t have a cast-iron skillet, add an additional 2 tablespoons oil to the pan before you add the scallops. If you’re using a grill, make sure the grate is well oiled. Makes 4 servings

20 large sea scallops

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

20 basil leaves

Yellow Pepper Relish (recipe follows)

Place the scallops in a large resealable plastic bag; add the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Seal and gently toss. Set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes.

On the stove:

Heat a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over high heat until smoking, about 5 minutes.

Add the scallops one flat side down and do not touch them for 2 minutes. (Once they caramelize, you’ll be able to get them off the pan without their sticking.)

Reduce the heat to medium and gently turn the scallops. Lay a basil leaf over each. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and continue cooking until the basil has wilted and the scallops are opaque and firm to the touch, about 3 more minutes. Serve on a bed of Yellow Pepper Relish.

On the grill:

Heat a gas grill to medium heat or build a medium-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Oil the grate with some of the oil from the marinade in the bag.

Place the scallops on the grate about 4 inches from the heat. Grill for 2 minutes.

Turn the scallops and lay a basil leaf over each. Cover the grill and continue cooking until opaque and somewhat firm to the touch, about 2 more minutes. Serve on a bed of Yellow Pepper Relish.

Yellow Pepper Relish

This sweet-and-sour relish is also good with roast chicken, grilled fish, or burgers. Makes 1½ cups

2 medium yellow bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into quarters

1 small onion

Boiling water

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons white vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Bring a large teakettle of water to a boil over high heat. Shred the bell peppers and onion through the large holes of a box grater or in a food processor fitted with the shredding blade. Place in a large bowl, cover with the boiling water to a depth of 1 inch, and set aside for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink.

Place the bell peppers and onion in a medium saucepan. Stir in ½ cup cool water and ½ cup vinegar; bring to a simmer over high heat. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 10 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink.

Return the bell peppers and onion to the saucepan. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, the sugar, salt, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, or until thickened like marmalade, stirring often.

To store: Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

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Lobster and Crab

These big crustaceans are perfect home fare. Just have lots of napkins on hand—you can’t eat them without getting messy.

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Lobster with Vanilla Butter

Nothing could be simpler—or more elegant—than lobster. Here are three ways to cook this delicacy with a buttery accompaniment. Makes 4 servings

Four 1¼-to 2-pound live lobsters, rinsed under cold water

Canola oil for the grate if grilling

Vanilla Butter

To boil:

Select a pot large enough to hold all the lobsters and plenty of water. Bring 2 to 3 gallons of water to a boil over high heat. There must be enough water to cover the lobsters once they’re in the pot.

Slide the lobsters into the pot headfirst. Cover and simmer until they turn completely red, 8 to 10 minutes for 1¼-pound lobsters, 10 to 12 minutes for 1½-pound lobsters, and 14 to 16 minutes for 2-pounders. If you’re concerned about under-cooking the lobster, you can snap off the