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By Root 4031 0

sirloin steak, a fairly chewy cut that benefits from a little added flavor like a rub or a flavored butter. In some parts of the country, particularly Texas and California, Delmonico is just another name for a rib eye. And in New York, the erstwhile home of Delmonico’s restaurant, it’s a strip or club steak, with or without the bone. In all cases, cook these steaks as you would strip steaks.

T-Bone or Porterhouse Steaks

Many people consider these the Cadillacs of steaks because they include the best of both worlds, found on each side of the middle bone in the short loin (shaped roughly like a “T”). On one side, there’s a strip steak; on the other, a piece of the tenderloin (or fillet). In general, a T-bone has less of the tenderloin than a porterhouse. We don’t recommend pan-searing these steaks. As the meat cooks, it contracts slightly from the bone, pulling up off the surface of the pan as the bone rests against the metal, thus negating all that searing and browning. Makes 4 servings

Two 1¼-pound, ¾-to 1-inch-thick porterhouse or T-bone steaks (see Note)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the broiler; line the broiler pan with aluminum foil.

Rub the steaks on both sides with the olive oil (about ¾ tablespoon per side). Season one side of the steaks with half the salt and pepper.

Set the steaks in the broiler pan and place them 4 inches from the heat source salted side up. Broil for 4 minutes.

Turn the steaks over, season the other side with the remaining salt and pepper, and continue broiling until an instant-read thermometer inserted diagonally into the thickest part of the larger side of the steaks registers

120°F (our definition of rare; the USDA does not recommend rare beef), 4 to 5 minutes

125°F (our definition of medium-rare and our preference for these steaks), 5 to 6 minutes

145°F (the USDA’s definition of medium-rare), about 8 minutes

160°F (the USDA’s definition of medium), about 10 minutes

or 170°F (the USDA’s definition of well done), about 12 minutes

Transfer the steaks to a carving board and let them stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving. Porterhouse steaks and T-bones are usually sliced before they’re served; cut the two sides off the bone by tracing a knife along the natural inside curve of the bone, then slice each piece into strips against the grain (see section Fish and Shellfish for an explanation of a meat’s grain).

To carve T-bones and Porterhouses, lay the steak on a carving board so that it looks rather like a heart, the tapered end nearest you. Starting at the top, run a sharp knife around the inside perimeter of the bone on each side, cutting away each side’s meat in one piece. Leave about ¼-inch meat along the bone for the biggest carnivore at the table to gnaw. Slice the meat into long, ½-inch-thick strips against the grain.

Note: Do not trim these steaks. The perimeter of fat will keep them juicy under the broiler’s heat.

Variations: Use a seasoned olive oil such as one flavored with lemon or roasted red peppers.

Mash 3 peeled garlic cloves into the oil before adding it to the steaks.

Omit the salt and pepper; use 1 tablespoon lemon pepper seasoning. When you flip the steaks, squeeze 1 tablespoon lemon juice over them.

Spice Rubs and Flavored Butters for Steaks

To add more flavor, try one of these spice rubs or flavored butter. Mix any of the rubs in a small bowl, oil the steaks as directed, and gently massage the rub into the meat. Forgo the salt and pepper in the recipes (the rubs already have them). Each rub mixture makes enough for 4 steaks; double or triple the quantity as needed. For the best taste, set the coated steaks on a platter, cover with wax paper, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.

Chili Rub

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon garlic powder

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When Is the Beef Done?

Although we give cooking