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½ cup packed dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, place a large bowl of ice water in the sink.

Once the water boils, drop in the tomatoes and cook for 30 seconds, just to loosen their skins. Transfer with a slotted spoon to the ice water bath. Cool completely, then slip off the skins and discard them. Roughly chop the tomatoes.

Place the chopped tomatoes and the rest of the ingredients in a large saucepan; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring often.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring often, until thickened, about 45 minutes.

Continue cooking, stirring constantly to prevent scorching, until ketchuplike, about 15 more minutes.

Spoon into clean glass canning jars, seal, and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

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Standing Rib Roast

Sometimes erroneously called a “prime rib”, a rib roast is made of the cow’s ribs plus the eye of meat under them. We do not recommend boneless rib roasts; the point here is to char the bone taste into the meat. Otherwise, you might as well enjoy a rib-eye steak. Again, the temperatures are a little lower than those recommended for beef because this large roast will gain degrees as it rests. Makes 6 hefty servings

1 three-bone 6 ½-to 7 ½-pound standing rib roast (see Notes)

Butcher’s twine

2 tablespoons coarse salt, such as kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (see Notes)

Cooking the roast in the oven:

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

To help the roast keep its shape while roasting, wrap and knot butcher’s twine securely but not too tightly around it, circling the twine in a single loop between each bone and over the eye meat. Coat the roast in salt and pepper, getting the seasonings all over the meat.

Place the roast in a large, heavy roasting pan bone side down (so that the bones arc underneath the meat, holding the roast up). Roast until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted diagonally into the center of the roast without touching bone registers

118°F (our definition of rare), about 1 hour and 45 minutes

122°F (our definition of medium-rare), about 1 hour and 55 minutes

128°F (our definition of medium), about 2 hours

140°F (the USDA definition of medium-rare), about 2 hours and 10 minutes

or 155°F (the USDA’s definition of medium), about 2 hours and 20 minutes

Remove the roast from the oven, set on a carving board, and tent with aluminum foil for 10 to 15 minutes before carving.

Cooking the roast on the grill:

Wrap and knot butcher’s twine around the roast as in step 2 above; coat with salt and pepper. Seal the roast in aluminum foil; place it bone side down in a disposable roasting pan.

Preheat a gas grill for high-heat cooking or build a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill.

Set the roasting pan with the beef on the grill grate directly over the heat, 4 to 6 inches above it. Cover and roast until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted diagonally into the roast’s center without the probe touching bone registers 115°F, about 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Remove the pan and roast from the grill. Unwrap the roast—be careful: the juices in the packet are hot. Discard the pan, foil, and all rendered “juices” (they’re mostly fat).

Return the roast bone side down to the grill grate. If using a gas grill, reduce the heat to medium; if using a charcoal grill, partially close the vents and do not feed the fire. Cover and grill for 5 minutes, then turn the roast onto its side and grill, covered, for 2 minutes. Repeat on the other side of the roast to char.

Return the roast to its original position of bone side down and continue roasting until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the center of the roast without the probe touching bone registers

118°F (our definition of rare), about 3 more minutes

122°F (our definition of