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Here, you ladle this rich stew over a thickening mixture of seasoned hazelnuts and bread crumbs in individual bowls. Makes 6 servings

¼ cup olive oil

3 pounds beef chuck or stew meat, cut into 1½-inch pieces

2 large onions, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 teaspoons minced sage leaves or 1 teaspoon dried sage

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 bay leaves

One 750ml bottle floral, fruity white wine, such as a Spanish white or a Pinot Gris

½ cup hazelnuts

½ cup packed parsley leaves

1/3 cup pitted green olives

1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed

2 thick slices stale bread, broken into pieces

2 garlic cloves, quartered

6 Roma or plum tomatoes, chopped

Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Heat an oven-safe casserole or a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the beef pieces and brown well, working in batches if need be. Don’t crowd the pot; you want the pieces to get a dark, caramelized crust. Transfer to a large plate and set aside.

Add the onions to the pot; cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes.

Return the beef to the pot. Stir in the thyme, sage, fennel seeds, salt, allspice, pepper, and bay leaves. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.

Pour in the wine; bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom.

Cover and bake until the meat is fork-tender and the wine has reduced to a thick sauce, about 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, toast the hazelnuts in a large skillet over medium-low heat until browned and aromatic, about 4 minutes, shaking the pan often. Pour the hot hazelnuts into a clean kitchen towel and cool for a few minutes. Gather together and rub the hazelnuts against each other inside the towel to remove most of their papery skins.

Pick the hazelnuts out of the towel and transfer them to a large food processor fitted with a chopping blade, leaving the skins behind. Add the parsley, olives, capers, bread, and garlic; process until finely ground but not powdery, like coarse bread crumbs. Set aside.

Once the beef is tender and the sauce has reduced, take the pan out of the oven, discard the bay leaves, and stir in the tomatoes. Cover and set aside off the heat for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to soften. To serve, place about 1/3 cup of the hazelnut mixture in the bottom of deep bowls, then ladle the beef stew on top.

Variations: Add 1/8 teaspoon saffron threads with the thyme; omit the allspice.

Substitute oregano for the sage.

Substitute red wine for the white wine and almonds for the hazelnuts. Toast the almonds as you would the hazelnuts in step 7—but remember, there are no skins to rub off.

Flemish-Inspired Beef Stew with Beer, Bacon, and Root Vegetables

This is a simplified waterzooi, a thick, beer-based stew served in Belgium. For the best taste, use a dark Belgian beer. Makes 8 servings

6 ounces thick-cut bacon, roughly chopped

2 pounds beef bottom round, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

12 ounces cremini or white button mushrooms, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup beef broth, or more as needed

One 12-ounce bottle dark Belgian beer

1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 large parsnip, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 small turnip, peeled and cubed

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and fry until crisp, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels.

Add the beef to the pot, working in batches if necessary to prevent crowding. Brown in the bacon fat until each piece has a dark, caramelized crust, turning often, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to the plate with the bacon.

Pour off all the