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Ultimate Cook Book_ 900 New Recipes, Thousands of Ideas - Bruce Weinstein [265]

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that’s ground. Hamburger, by contrast, may have additional fat ground into the meat and may have a fat content far higher than 30%.

That said, there are some teeth in the ground-beef monikers. According to the USDA, 100 grams of “lean” ground beef must have less than 10 grams of fat, 4.5 grams of saturated fat, and 95 milligrams of cholesterol; 100 grams of “extra lean” must have less than 5 grams of fat, 2 grams of saturated fat, and 95 grams of cholesterol.

When purchasing ground beef, remember that the sell-by date on the package has no governmental authorization; you must trust your local market and butcher. Do not buy meat that has turned fully brown; do not use meat with a funky smell or shimmery sheen. Also remember that most beef is ground at local supermarkets, not at plants under USDA supervision.

If you’re not going to use ground beef within a day of purchase, remove it from its packaging, seal it in a ziplock bag, and freeze it for up to 2 months. Thaw ground beef in the refrigerator, never on the counter. A pound should take about 24 hours to thaw.

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Veal

Because of somewhat verifiable if still aggrandized news reports, the veal industry in North America has collapsed. Or to be more accurate, its mass-production end has. Although many people lost their jobs, the industry is coming back in important and sustainable ways. Sweet, tender veal is now a specialty meat, raised mostly on family farms.

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Veal Chops

Perhaps the best way to enjoy veal is in this simple preparation for a veal chop. Grilling can mask the delicate taste; roasting can toughen the meat. Most veal chops are cut like steaks. A loin chop is the veal equivalent of a porterhouse steak; a rib chop, about the equivalent of a bone-in rib eye. Either of these chops is great for this simple preparation. Veal shoulder chops, however, have more tendons and cartilage; they must be long cooked to become tender and so are not recommended here. Makes as many servings as you have chops

As many 12-ounce, 1½ inch-thick rib or loin veal chops as you need

1 tablespoon olive oil per chop

½ minced garlic clove per chop

½ teaspoon minced rosemary leaves per chop

¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest per chop

Trim the perimeter fat off the chops, then rub each with olive oil.

Mix the garlic, rosemary, and lemon zest in a small bowl; gently massage this mixture into both sides of each chop (about ½ teaspoon mixture on each side of each chop). Set the chops on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Line the broiler pan with aluminum foil to make cleanup easier. Preheat the broiler.

Set the chops in the broiler pan and broil 5 inches from the heat, turning once, until browned and medium-rare, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thick center of one chop registers 135°F (our preference) or 160°F (the USDA recommendation), 10 to 15 minutes.

Veal Rib Roast

This is the veal version of a standing rib roast—a showstopper at any dinner table. Do not use a veal shoulder roast; the meat will be too tough. Makes 8 servings

One 4-bone standing veal rib roast (see Note)

4 garlic cloves, quartered

1 tablespoon coarse-grained salt, preferably kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 rosemary sprigs

3 thyme sprigs

Butcher’s twine

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Use a sharp paring knife to make sixteen slits all over the roast; slip a sliver of garlic into each slit. Sprinkle the salt and pepper all over the roast. Lay the rosemary and thyme sprigs over the center eye of meat; tie them in place by wrapping butcher’s twine around the roast between the bones, thereby also tying the meat itself to hold its shape while roasting.

Set the roast in a large, heavy-duty roasting pan or a disposable aluminum roasting pan. Roast until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the center of the roast without touching bone registers 135°F (our definition of medium-rare) or 160°F (the USDA definition for medium-rare),

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