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2 bay leaves

1½ cups dry sherry

3½ cups canned diced tomatoes with their juice (a 28-ounce can)

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Heat a very large oven-safe Dutch oven or a very large oven casserole over medium heat. Add the bacon and fry until crisp, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Season the osso buco pieces with salt and pepper, then add them to the pot, working in batches to brown them evenly as necessary. Cook until well browned, about 4 minutes; then turn and continue cooking until well browned on the other side, about 4 more minutes. Transfer the osso buco pieces to a large plate and set aside.

Add the onion to the pot; cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 20 seconds.

Stir in the chickpeas and olives; cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

Add the smoked paprika, thyme, hot paprika, saffron, and bay leaves; cook, stirring constantly, until quite aromatic, about 30 seconds.

Raise the heat to medium-high and pour in the sherry. Bring the sauce to a boil, scraping up any browned bits on the pot’s bottom. Continue boiling until reduced by half, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the tomatoes and their juice, then stir in the cooked bacon. Nestle the pieces of osso buco into the pot, leaving them flat (not standing on their sides) and as submerged in the sauce as possible. Bring to a simmer.

Cover and place the pot in the oven. Bake until the meat is fork-tender, changing the positions of the pieces occasionally so they have all spent time in the sauce, about 2½ hours.

Using a large slotted spoon, transfer the pieces of osso buco to serving bowls or plates. Place the hot pot or casserole over high heat, bring the sauce to a full boil, and stir in the cilantro and vinegar. Ladle the sauce over the osso buco and serve at once.

Variations: Substitute venison or goat osso buco for the veal.

Add 1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped, with the onion.

For a somewhat sweeter dish, add 2 carrots, finely chopped, with the onion.

Substitute 2 medium baking potatoes, peeled and cubed, for the chickpeas.

For a milder dish, substitute mild paprika for the hot Hungarian variety.

If you can’t find hot Hungarian paprika, substitute up to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper.

Southwestern Veal Stew with Chiles, Cinnamon, and Honey

Mince the vegetables quite small so they almost dissolve into this cinnamon-spiked sauce. Cornmeal thickens the stew. Makes 6 servings

1 large onion, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 pickled jalapeño chile, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons ancho chili powder or finely ground seeded and stemmed dried New Mexican red chiles

2 tablespoons canola oil

2½ pounds veal shoulder or leg meat, trimmed of all fat and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon honey

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt, plus more as necessary

2 cups chicken broth

1½ tablespoons yellow cornmeal

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Mix the onion, garlic, jalapeño chile, and chili powder in a medium bowl; set aside.

Heat a large, oven-safe Dutch oven or other large casserole over medium heat. Swirl in the canola oil, then add the chunks of veal. Cook, turning frequently, until well browned, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the onion mixture; cook, stirring often, until very fragrant and the onion pieces are quite soft, about 3 minutes. (Be careful: the chile oils will volatilize and can burn your eyes—don’t stand directly over the pot.)

Stir in the honey, cinnamon, cumin, and salt; cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.

Stir in the broth and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom.

Stir in the cornmeal, then cover the casserole and place in the oven. Bake, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fork-tender and the sauce has thickened, about 2 hours. Check to see if the sauce needs salt before serving.