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blot dry. Heat a large, oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat, then swirl in the olive oil or canola oil (use olive oil if it’s also found in the marinade). Add the tenderloins and brown on all sides, turning a few times, about 5 minutes. Place the skillet in the oven and bake until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted diagonally into the thickest part of the tenderloins registers 150°F (our preference) or 160°F (the USDA recommendation), 10 to 14 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes on a carving board before slicing into rounds and serving.

To grill: Heat a gas grill to high heat or prepare a well-ashed, high-heat coal bed in a charcoal grill. Lightly oil the grill grate and set it 4 to 6 inches over the heat. Remove the tenderloins from the bag and place them directly over the heat. Grill, turning often, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted diagonally into the thickest part of the meat registers 150°F (our preference) or 160°F (the USDA recommendation), 12 to 16 minutes. Let stand on a carving board for 5 minutes before slicing into rounds.

Note: Most tenderloins have a thin, translucent membrane arcing over the meat; slice it off before marinating. Do not confuse it with the more opaque, milky white fat which should be left on to keep the meat moist as it roasts.

Four Marinades for Pork Tenderloin

1. Lemon Pepper Marinade

1/3 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest

1½ teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2. Teriyaki Marinade

½ cup canned crushed pineapple

6 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons dry sake or dry white wine

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, crushed

3. Spiced Apple Marinade

½ cup frozen unsweetened apple juice concentrate, thawed

½ cup water

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4. Honey-Orange Marinade

½ cup frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, crushed

Char Siu

This is the classic Chinese barbecued pork but made leaner by using pork tenderloin. Roasting the meat directly on the oven rack permits the best air circulation—thus giving the best jerkylike texture to the meat’s exterior. Use three smaller or two larger tenderloins for this recipe. Char Siu is great in composed salads, as an appetizer, as part of a buffet, or as a substitute for the meat in almost any spicy stir-fry that doesn’t include long simmering. Makes 8 to 10 servings

3 pounds pork tenderloin, trimmed of any silverskin

1 cup peeled, cored, and chopped fresh pineapple

2 garlic cloves, crushed

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup honey

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

6 drops red food coloring, optional but traditional

Nonstick spray or canola oil

¼ cup chicken broth

Butterfly the tenderloins by laying them on your work surface and splitting them lengthwise, running the knife along the tenderloin parallel to the work surface without cutting through—thus, they can be opened up and pressed flat.

Whisk the pineapple, garlic, soy sauce, honey, brown sugar, Shaoxing or sherry, hoisin sauce, and food coloring, if using, in a medium bowl until the sugar dissolves.

Place the tenderloins in a large resealable plastic bag, add the pineapple marinade, seal, and shake well to coat the meat. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours, occasionally shaking the bag and rubbing the marinade into the meat through the plastic.

Clean the oven rack; spray it with nonstick spray or rub a little canola oil on it. Position it in the middle of the oven, then preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the broiler pan or a disposable aluminum pan under the rack to catch any drips.

Remove the tenderloins from the marinade and let them sit at room temperature while the oven heats. Also, pour all the marinade into