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Skim off any impurities or foam that rises to the surface, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer slowly until tender, about 1½ hours.

Transfer the meat to a large bowl with a slotted spoon. Scoop out the garlic cloves and place them in a separate bowl. Set both aside.

Strain the hot broth, discarding all the solids, and return it to the large saucepan. Stir in the fish sauce and lime juice; bring to a boil over high heat. Boil until reduced by two thirds, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the shortening or lard in a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the pork pieces; fry until crispy on two sides, turning once, about 6 minutes. Work in batches if you need to.

Stir the pork into the simmering sauce. Squeeze all the garlic out of the hulls and into the sauce. Bring back to a simmer, stirring all the while to melt the garlic into the sauce before serving.

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Lamb

Lamb is a mildly gamy but very sweet meat. Technically, a lamb is under one year of age, usually around 8 months. So-called spring lamb is a moniker like “jumbo shrimp”—a label with no enforced value.

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Lamb Chops

Lamb chops are found in three varieties: shoulder, loin, and rib. Shoulder chops are fattier, more fibrous, and better for stewing. Loin or rib chops can be a little bland but either will work here; both marinades will improve their natural qualities. Loin chops are sometimes sold as “double chops”: two bones per chop. Cook these perhaps half again as long, paying close attention to the internal temperature. Makes 4 servings

Eight 6-ounce, 1-inch-thick lamb shoulder or loin or rib chops, trimmed of peripheral fat

One of the two marinades that follow

Canola oil for the grate, if grilling

Place the chops and one of the marinades in a large plastic bag. Seal, massage the marinade into the chops through the plastic, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours, occasionally massaging the chops in the marinade through the plastic.

Remove the chops from the marinade and blot dry with paper towels. Set aside at room temperature while you prepare the broiler or grill.

To broil: Line the broiler pan with aluminum foil and preheat the broiler. Place the chops in the pan and broil, turning once, until browned and sizzling, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted diagonally into the center of the meat without the probe touching bone registers 135°F (our preference for medium-rare) or 145°F (the USDA recommendation), 8 to 10 minutes for loin chops and 15 minutes for shoulder chops.

To grill: Preheat the charcoal grill for high-heat cooking or build a well-ashed, high-heat coal bed in a charcoal grill. Lightly oil the grate, set it 4 to 6 inches over the heat, and place the chops directly over the heat or coal bed. Grill, turning once, until browned and sizzling, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into one of the chops registers 135°F (our preference for medium-rare) or 145°F (the USDA recommendation), 7 to 8 minutes for loin chops and 11 to 12 minutes for shoulder chops.

Let the chops stand on a cutting board or serving plates for 5 minutes before serving.

Note: Cooking the chops to medium-rare allows you to preserve both the meat’s taste and texture. You can cook lamb to medium—an internal temperature of 155°F—but the meat will toughen considerably. Medium-well or well done are not recommended.

Two Marinades for

Lamb Chops

1. Gin Marinade

1 cup gin

2 tablespoons juniper berries, crushed

2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 bay leaf

2. Apple Pomegranate Marinade

1 small onion, minced

½ cup apple juice

3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

2 teaspoons minced dill fronds or 1 teaspoon dried dill

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Lamb Sirloin

This delicately flavored if unusual cut cooks up just like a beef sirloin; it should be served thinly sliced, perhaps over a composed salad. Omit the bacon and try it over the BLT salad.