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Sprinkle the flour over the fat in the pot, wait 5 seconds, then whisk constantly until pastelike and lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Whisking all the while, slowly add the strained marinade to the pot; continue whisking until you have a slightly thick, smooth sauce. Return the rabbit and any juices to the pan, then add the vegetables and aromatics from the marinade.

Bring to a simmer, stirring well. Cover and place in the oven. Bake for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl in 1 tablespoon olive oil and add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until they have given off most of their liquid and it has been reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, then the pearl onions. Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Pour into the bowl with the mushrooms.

Remove the pot from the oven. Transfer the rabbit pieces to a clean, large bowl. Remembering that the pot is very hot, strain the cooking liquid through a sieve or colander into a large bowl set in the sink. Discard all the solids, then return the strained liquid to the pot. Set it over medium-high heat and add the rabbit, mushrooms, onions, and fried bacon. Stir well and bring to a simmer.

Cover, place the pot back in the oven, and cook until the rabbit meat is falling off the bones, about 1 more hour. Check the sauce for salt before serving.

Variations: Substitute unsalted butter for the olive oil.

Add 8 pitted prunes, halved, or 6 dried apricots, quartered, with the mushrooms.

Add 1 medium turnip, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes, or 3 parsnips, peeled and sliced into ½-inch rings, with the mushrooms, onions, and bacon.

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Other rabbit dishes include the Rabbit Ragù and the Winter Paella with Rabbit, Quail, and Duck Confit.

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Vegetables

IN A BALANCED MEAL, A VEGETABLE DISH SHOULD FUNCTION AS A COUNTER-WEIGHT, the other half of a plate, not an afterthought, but complimentary and complementary. Pair sweeter vegetables with more earthy main courses, blander vegetables with stronger-tasting meats, and find a side dish with a little acid (lemon juice, vinegar, etc.) to set against a simple, no-cream fish or pork sauté. Call it a balancing act, the same as for any good duo. There’s no Laurel without Hardy, no Steve without Eydie, no Massachusetts without Mississippi.

That said, for an average weeknight, there’s no need to get bound up in complicated decisions. Just consider texture and taste: crunchy with moist (asparagus with roast chicken, say) or creamy with chewy (mashed potatoes with steak). That forethought already assures you that your dinner is beyond the ordinary.

Still and all, some of these dishes are beyond being mere sides: the vegetable casseroles and the potato salads, for example. While these could be a vegetable anchor on a larger buffet, most will be the center piece to a meal.

With vegetables, fresh is everything. While we do call for some frozen convenience products (corn, peas, and pearl onions, for example), we assume that the vegetables you use are fresh from the market.

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How to Cook Vegetables

Here are the fundamentals of cooking vegetables—what to look for, how to store them, how to prepare them, all contained in narrative recipes rather than the more familiar formulas. We do not, for example, tell you how much olive oil to drizzle on asparagus spears. If you bear in mind that to drizzle is less than to dollop and to dash, less than to drench, you’ll be fine.

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Artichokes—Baby Artichokes

Look for small heads about the size of a votive candle. These are not immature artichokes, but rather the smaller blooms that grow toward the bottom of the stalk. They should have no bruising or browning. The leaves should be tight against the head. Four baby artichokes per person is a generous serving.

To store: Seal in a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

To prepare: Wash to get rid of any