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the lemon zest and boil until tender and lacking its bitter edge, about 10 minutes. Drain in a fine-mesh sieve or small-holed colander set in the sink, then refresh under cool running water.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then the shredded zucchini. Cook, stirring often, until wilted and warmed but not until the zucchini begins to break down and give off its water, about 2 minutes. Transfer the contents of the skillet to a large serving bowl.

Stir in the boiled lemon zest, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Serve at once while warm.

Note: Take care not to press the lemons hard against the grater; you’ll end up with too much of the bitter white pith along with the zest.

Variations: Add 2 tablespoons pine nuts, chopped pecan halves, or chopped walnut pieces to the skillet with the zucchini.

Add a few dashes of hot red pepper sauce with the vinegar.

Shave a large strip of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Asiago over each warm serving, letting it melt slightly over the zucchini’s heat.

Yellow Squash Noodles with Butter, Peas, and Cream

Look for fairly straight, long summer squash, ones you can easily run a vegetable peeler over to create these “noodles.” Makes 4 servings

2 pounds yellow squash

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup shelled fresh peas or thawed frozen peas

¼ cup heavy cream

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (about ½ cup)

Use a vegetable peeler to make long, thin noodles from the squash, running it along their flat surfaces, turning the squash after each strip. Don’t shave them into their seedy cores—which you should discard.

Melt the butter in the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, raise the heat to medium, and cook for 20 seconds.

Add the prepared squash noodles and cook until tender, tossing often, about 3 minutes. (Kitchen tongs work best.) Add the peas; cook for 1 minute.

Stir in the cream and bring to a boil. Stir in the pepper, salt, and red pepper flakes; then remove from the heat and stir in the cheese until melted.

Variations: For a stronger taste, substitute Asiago for the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Substitute ½ cup pine nuts for the peas.

For an even creamier dish, omit the Parmigiano-Reggiano and stir in 2 ounces soft goat cheese such as Montrachet into the sauce until melted.

Sautéed Baby Artichokes and Shiitake Mushrooms

Here’s an easy sauté that goes well with roast chicken or beef. Makes 6 servings

4 teaspoons lemon juice

12 baby artichokes

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium shallots, finely chopped

12 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and discarded, caps thinly sliced

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Bring a large pot of water plus 2 teaspoons lemon juice to a boil over high heat.

Cut the stems off the artichokes and remove any tough dark green outer leaves. Quarter the artichokes, then add them to the boiling water. Blanch the outer leaves until just tender, about 5 minutes; drain in a colander set in the sink.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the shallots. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes.

Add the mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring often, until they give off their liquid, about 4 minutes.

Add the artichoke quarters; cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the lemon zest, thyme, salt, and pepper; cook for 20 seconds.

Pour in the broth and raise the heat to medium-high. Scrape up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom and continue cooking, stirring every so often, until the liquid in the pan has reduced to a glaze, about 2 minutes. Stir gently at this stage to keep the artichoke quarters