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Add the butternut squash; cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes.

Pour in the broth, then the brandy and honey. Stir well, cover, and reduce the heat to low. (Be careful of brandy around an open flame; pour it gently into the middle of the skillet.) Simmer until the squash is tender, stirring once in a while, about 12 minutes.

Uncover the pan, raise the heat to medium-high, add the salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid in the pan has reduced to a glaze, about 2 minutes.

Variations: Substitute Cognac or red wine for the brandy, or use all broth and no alcohol (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons broth).

Spaghetti Squash, Cannellini Beans, and Broccoli Raab

Once baked and removed from its shell, spaghetti squash turns into strings like pasta, as in this classic Italian combination. Makes 6 servings

One 3-pound spaghetti squash, halved lengthwise through the stem, seeded, roasted, and cooled

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 garlic cloves, slivered

12/3 cups canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

1 pound broccoli raab, chopped (about 6 cups)

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ cup vegetable broth

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Scrape the cooked flesh out of the squash and into a large bowl with a fork so that it separates into little filaments or threads. Set aside.

Heat a large, high-sided skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then the garlic. Cook until quite aromatic, stirring often, about 1 minute.

Toss in the beans, broccoli raab, salt, nutmeg, and red pepper flakes; stir well, then pour in the broth. Cover and steam for 5 minutes, stirring a couple of times. Add the butter and squash; toss well until heated through.

Variations: Omit the beans; increase the broccoli raab to 1½ pounds.

For a sweeter dish, substitute broccoli florets or peas for the broccoli raab.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Roots

This is our default holiday side dish: a sheet pan of caramelized, irresistible parsnips, sprouts, and the rest. The trick is to cut everything the same size: about the size of a small Brussels sprout. Makes 8 servings

3 medium parsnips, peeled and sliced into ½-inch rings

2 medium acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cubed

1 medium rutabaga, peeled and cubed

1 medium turnip, peeled and cubed

¼ cup olive oil

1 pound small Brussels sprouts, stems trimmed, tough outer leaves removed

1 tablespoon coarse-grained salt, such as kosher salt

Position the rack in the center of the oven; preheat the oven to 375°F.

Place the parsnips, squash, rutabaga, and turnip on a large lipped baking sheet; toss with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Roast, tossing occasionally, for 35 minutes.

Toss the Brussels sprouts with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large bowl. Add them to the baking sheet, toss well, and continue roasting, tossing occasionally, until caramelized and lightly browned, about 25 more minutes. Season with salt and cool for 5 minutes before serving.

Variations: Substitute 1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed, for the acorn squash.

Substitute carrots for the parsnips.

Oven-Roasted Ratatouille

Roasting the vegetables in this tomato and eggplant side caramelizes their sugars better than stewing them in a saucepan. Makes 6 servings

2 medium tomatoes (about 1 pound total weight), chopped

2 medium zucchini (about 1 pound total weight), halved lengthwise and cut into ½-inch slices

2 small eggplants (about 1 pound total weight), quartered and cut into ½-inch slices

1 large red onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon minced oregano leaves or ½ teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Toss all the ingredients in a large bowl, then pour them into a large, shallow roasting pan or casserole.

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