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Spanish-Inspired Potato Salad with Chickpeas, Saffron, and Pine Nuts

This main course is reminiscent of dishes served with dry sherry in Madrid tapas bars. If you can only find Mexican-style chorizo, slice it into ½-inch sections and fry it in the oil until it is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Makes 6 servings

13/4 pounds small yellow-fleshed potatoes, scrubbed

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound dried Spanish chorizo, cut in half lengthwise, then into ½-inch sections

1½ cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed

3 jarred pimientos, drained and cut into thin strips

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

3 celery ribs, chopped

½ cup toasted pine nuts

¼ cup chopped parsley leaves

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar

1½ teaspoons anchovy paste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads soaked in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon hot water for 5 minutes

½ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil

Bring a medium pot of water to boil. Add the potatoes and boil until tender when pierced with a fork, about 14 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink and cool slightly, then cut the potatoes in half or into 1-inch chunks, whichever is smaller. Place in a large serving bowl.

Heat a medium skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Swirl in 1 tablespoon olive oil, then add the chorizo. Cook, stirring frequently, until reddish brown and sizzling, about 2 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.

Stir the chorizo into the potatoes along with the chickpeas, pimientos, onion, celery, pine nuts, and parsley.

Whisk in the vinegar, anchovy paste, pepper, and saffron (with its water) until smooth. Continue whisking as you drizzle in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream; whisk until emulsified, about 1 minute. Pour over the potato salad and gently toss to serve warm.

Grains, Beans, Lentils, and Tofu

BEHOLD THE POWER OF THE POTATO! IT HAS NUDGED GRAINS, BEANS, AND lentils off our plates to become America’s favorite side. By the 1980s, the only time most of us saw a grain was the rice alongside Chinese takeout.

The potato’s success—and we’re unabashed fans—has actually been great news for grains and legumes. They’ve had to stand up for themselves to become more than just thoughtless additions. Besides, in most of the world, they’re not side dishes anyway; they are main courses—or, like rice, absolutely integral to the main course. Most of these recipes are indeed for main courses; the power pack of nutrients that makes grain and legumes a global staple can be highlighted once they’re moved to the center of the plate.

We’ve included tofu here because it’s made from soybeans and functions in the same way as many main-course legumes—that is, as a meat substitute.

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Grains

Grains got a bad rap in both the conservative and liberal ends of the sixties. By the time we were teenagers, there were few to be had on the American table. But today’s cooks know better. And thanks to a more international food scene, grain dishes have become a part of the American culinary lexicon. Frankly, we can’t think of a better lunch or dinner.

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Mushroom Barley Salad

Barley is an ancient grain, now used primarily in beer and whiskey production. Pearl barley is made of hulled and polished barley grains. It’s available in several varieties, depending on the thickness of the grain itself; coarse or medium pearl barley is best for this dish. Consider making this dish ahead and storing it, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, a good lunch to pull out when the days get hectic. Makes 6 servings

3½ cups water

1 cup coarse or medium pearl barley

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

8 ounces cremini or white button mushrooms, chopped

1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

1 small red onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

¼ cup mayonnaise, regular, low-fat, or homemade

¼ cup