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the cutting edge toward you, insert the tip of a knife into the joint, pressing the tip straight down to the board; then bring the cutting edge down toward the board, slicing through the ligaments and tendons until the joint snaps apart. Finally, slice through the skin to separate. Repeat with the other joint in the wing.

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“Deviled” Eggs, Eight Ways

Filled, hard-cooked eggs never last long on the coffee table. Here are eight versions for your next party. Makes 12 filled egg halves (can be doubled or tripled)

6 large eggs

One of the eight fillings that follows

Place the eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold them comfortably in one layer. Fill the pan with cool water so that it comes 1 inch over the eggs. Cover, place over high heat, and bring the water to a full boil.

Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and set aside for 15 minutes. Pour off most of the water in the pan, add a few ice cubes, and run cold water into the pan to cool the eggs quickly to room temperature.

Tap the shells against a counter to crack them in several places, then roll them gently between your palms. Peel off the shells, starting at the large ends.

Cut the eggs in half the long way, then scoop the yolks into a bowl. Set the whites aside while you make one of the fillings.

Spoon the filling back into the whites. For a fancier presentation, place the filling in a pastry bag fitted with a small, star-shaped tip and pipe into the whites—or place the filling in a resealable plastic bag, snip off a tiny bit of one corner, and squeeze the filling through the hole into the whites.

To store: Place the filled eggs on a serving platter, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours; allow them to stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

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Tip for Success

If your appetizer buffet is going to last for an hour or so, consider making a double batch and keeping half the eggs in the fridge until the first batch has been eaten.

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The Eight Fillings

For any of these, add the ingredients to a medium bowl; and stir and mash with a fork until creamy. Use either homemade mayonnaise or purchased (regular, low-fat, or fat-free).

1. Classic Deviled Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon dry mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

2. Ginger Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon chili paste

¼ teaspoon salt

3. Curried Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons dry mustard

2 teaspoons curry powder

2 teaspoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

4. Wasabi Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons prepared wasabi paste

½ teaspoon soy sauce

5. French Onion Dip Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

1½ tablespoons sour cream

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

1 tablespoon minced chives or 1 tablespoon minced scallion, green part only

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon salt

6. Cocktail Sauce Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

2 tablespoons ketchup

1 to 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

7. Southwestern Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon lime juice

¼ teaspoon salt

8. Quiche Lorraine Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

3 strips bacon, fried until crisp and crumbled into very small bits

2 tablespoons sour cream (reqular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons minced scallion, green part only

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Cold Sake-and-Ginger Mussels

Here, you steam the mussels in sake, then chill them in a ginger broth. For tips on handling mussels, see section Fish and Shellfish. Makes 6 appetizer servings (can be doubled)

½ cup sake

3 garlic cloves, quartered

36 large mussels, cleaned and debearded

1 small shallot, minced

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons