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of wax paper, and cut into various shapes using cookie cutters. Lay these over the top of the pie, starting with one attached to the bottom crust’s rim at some point and then overlapping the shapes slightly, working your way across the pie so that several of the shapes connect to the crust’s rim in other places.

Or make a crumb topping. Mix either of the following two toppings together in a medium bowl until sandlike, then use your fingers to crumble over the filling, covering it evenly and completely.

Crumb Topping

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¾ cup all-purpose flour

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup packed light brown sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

Oat Crumb Topping

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup rolled oats (do not use steel-cut or quick-cooking)

1/3 cup walnut oil or

1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¼ cup maple syrup

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

¼ cup chopped walnut pieces

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

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Because of their natural juiciness, all fruit pies must have thickened fillings; flour and cornstarch are common aids. A more old-school answer is to use quick-cooking tapioca; it gives the filling an incredibly smooth texture. However, because it is so silky, it’s best mixed with a little all-purpose flour to give the pie some tooth.

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Bake the pie for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350°F and continue baking until the filling is bubbling, 40 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the filling (berries take less time; apples, more time). If the crust’s edges begin to burn, cover them with a thin strip of aluminum foil while baking.

To cool: Place on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing.

To store: Once cooled, the pie can be covered with plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 2 days or in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

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Crimping the Edge

Beautiful pies have a decorative rim. Once the dough is in the plate, trim off any excess, making sure some crust lies along the plate’s rim.

The easiest way to embellish that upper edge is to press a fork (for tine marks) or the back of a spoon (for concave waves) into the crust that lies along the plate’s rim.

Or make a series of cuts 1 inch apart along the crust that lies along the plate’s upper rim. Pick up the right edge of each cut and stretch it up and into the middle of the next cut.

Or flute the edge. Take one hand and make a U with your thumb and index finger; insert the index finger from your other hand into this U. Now use this technique to go around the edge of the crust, positioning your fingers parallel to the bottom of the pie plate and pushing the U from the outside of the crust and the single index finger from the inside of the plate, thereby creating little waved edges all the way around.

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Raisin Pie

This pie mocks the taste of mincemeat without larding in unsavory bits of suet. Makes one 9-inch pie

2 large tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and cubed

2 cups raisins

1 large egg plus 2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

6 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon salt

1 recipe Short Crust, Butter Crust, or Walnut Crust

1, lined into a 9-inch pie plate

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the apples and raisins in a large food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Pulse a few times to chop, then process for about 20 seconds until finely chopped.

Add the egg, egg yolks, both sugars, orange zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Process until thick and gooey; pour and scrape evenly into the prepared crust. (No top crust is required.)

Bake until puffed and browned, until the filling wobbles slightly at the center without any waves when the pie is tapped, about 45 minutes.

To cool: Place on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing.

To store: Once cooled, the