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Here, sugar is “burnt” until it’s a dark caramel, then added to the creamy filling to create a sweet if slightly bitter pie that’s topped with clouds of meringue. Makes one 9-inch pie

3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten, at room temperature

22/3 cups whole or low-fat milk (do not use fat-free)

½ teaspoon salt

2 cups granulated sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 recipe Short Crust, Butter Crust, or Walnut Crust, lined into a 9-inch pie plate and prebaked (for instructions on prebaking,)

6 large egg whites, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

¾ cup confectioners’ sugar

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

Whisk the egg yolks, 1/3 cup milk, and the salt in a large bowl until smooth. Whisk in ½ cup granulated sugar, the cornstarch, and flour until dissolved. Set aside.

Place the remaining 21/3 cups milk in a large saucepan and set it over medium-low heat until little bubbles dot the pan’s inner rim. Adjust the heat so the milk stays this hot without coming to a simmer.

Cook the remaining 1½ cups sugar in a heavy, large skillet over medium-high heat until the sugar starts to melt, about 3 minutes; stir well and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until fully melted and light brown. Should the sugar begin to brown too darkly, remove the pan from the heat and continue stirring; the residual heat will continue melting the sugar.

Increase the heat under the milk to medium-high and slowly add the superhot, caramelized sugar, whisking all the while. The mixture will froth and roil—be very careful. Reduce the heat and continue whisking until smooth, about 2 minutes. If any of the sugar relumps in the pan, continue cooking and stirring until it dissolves again—but do not let the milk come to a full boil again. Remove the pan from the heat.

Whisk about half of this milk mixture in a thin stream into the egg yolk mixture until smooth, then whisk the combined mixture back into the milk mixture in the pan. Set the pan over low heat (if you’re using an electric stove, place the pan over an unused burner just now turned to low) and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and just beginning to bubble, about 2 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and 1 teaspoon vanilla; strain through a fine-mesh sieve into the prebaked crust.

Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at high speed until you can make soft, airy, droopy peaks with the tip of a rubber spatula. With the mixer running, add the confectioners’ sugar in 1-tablespoon increments. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and continue beating at high speed until the mixture forms glossy, silky, smooth, but droopy peaks on the spatula’s tip.

Spoon the meringue onto the hot custard, sealing the meringue against the crust’s edge by pressing down with a rubber spatula or a flatware spoon. Make little waves, ridges, and peaks in the meringue with the spatula or spoon.

Bake until the meringue lightly browns, about 8 minutes.

To cool: Set on a wire rack for 20 minutes, then refregerate 1 hour before slicing.

To store: Once fully cooled, the pie can be refrigerated, lightly covered, for up to 2 days.

Raspberry Chiffon Pie

A light, airy chiffon pie set over a chocolate cookie crust is a refreshing summer treat, especially after a spicy meal. If you’re concerned about raw eggs, use pasteurized, in-shell eggs. Makes one 9-inch pie

6 ounces chocolate wafer cookies

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2/3 cup plus 4½ tablespoons sugar

2 cups (1 pint) fresh raspberries

One ¼-ounce envelope unflavored gelatin or 2½ teaspoons unflavored gelatin

¼ cup white grape juice

1 cup heavy cream

3 large eggs, separated, at room temperature

1 tablespoon raspberry liqueur, such as Chambord

Fresh raspberries or shaved chocolate for garnish, optional

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Grind the chocolate cookies