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Cobblers, Crisps, British Puddings, Pandowdies, Slumps, and Brown Betties

Here’s what happened to pies and tarts once they began to take on regional and local overtones—simplified, modified, and homey. These are all riffs on a theme: a baked fruit or berry filling with a crust on top.

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A road map for Fruit Cobbler

There’s no telling what the name means: cobbled together, a crust like cobblestones, a simple dessert a cobbler would eat? In any event, it’s a two-step dessert—a fruit filling under a biscuit topping. Serve with Sweetened Whipped Cream, Vanilla Frozen Custard, or purchased frozen yogurt. Makes 6 servings

Start by positioning the rack in the center of the oven and preheating the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 9-inch square pan with a little unsalted butter or walnut oil.

Next, mix any of the following together in a large bowl, pour into the prepared pan, and set aside for 10 to 15 minutes.

Apple

2½ pounds tart apples, such as Granny Smith, Pippin, Rome Beauty, Cortland, or Northern Spy, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar

1½ tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

Apricot

2 pounds fresh apricots, pitted and sliced; or 2 pounds sliced frozen pitted apricots, thawed

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

¼ teaspoon almond extract

¼ teaspoon salt

Blackberry

3 pints fresh blackberries or 2½ pounds frozen blackberries (do not thaw)

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

2 teaspoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

Blueberry

3 pints fresh blueberries or 2½ pounds frozen blueberries (do not thaw)

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

Fig

3 pints large fresh figs (about 18), stemmed and quartered

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

¼ teaspoon salt

Gooseberry

3 pints gooseberries, papery hulls removed and stemmed

1½ cups sugar

2½ tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

Nectarine

3 pounds fresh nectarines, peeled, pitted, and sliced; or 2½ pounds sliced frozen pitted nectarines, thawed

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon gold rum, optional

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

Peach

2½ pounds fresh peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced; or 2½ pounds sliced frozen pitted peaches, thawed

1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

1½ tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon almond extract, optional

¼ teaspoon salt

Peach Melba

2 pounds fresh peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced; or three 12-ounce bags sliced frozen pitted peaches, thawed

1 pint fresh raspberries

½ cup sugar

1½ tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, optional

¼ teaspoon almond extract

¼ teaspoon salt

Pear

3 pounds ripe sweet fresh pears, such as Anjou, Bartlett, or Comice, peeled, cored, and sliced

¼ cup sugar

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg, optional

¼ teaspoon salt

Pear Cranberry

2½ pounds ripe sweet fresh pears, such as Anjou, Bartlett, or Comice, peeled, cored, and sliced

8 ounces fresh cranberries, roughly chopped

¾ cup sugar

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

1 tablespoon brandy, optional

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

¼ teaspoon ground mace

¼ teaspoon salt

Plum

2½ pounds ripe fresh plums, pitted and sliced

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, optional

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

Raspberry

3 pints fresh raspberries or 2½ pounds frozen raspberries (do not thaw)