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2 tablespoons maple syrup

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (see Note)

¼ teaspoon salt

Pecan Crisp Topping

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup finely chopped pecan pieces

6 tablespoons sugar

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¼ teaspoon salt

Walnut Raisin Crisp Topping

¾ cup all-purpose flour

½ cup finely chopped walnut pieces

1/3 cup chopped raisins

1/3 cup sugar

¼ cup rolled oats (do not use quick-cooking or steel-cut)

¼ cup walnut oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

Coconut Crisp Topping

1 cup all-purpose flour

6 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

6 tablespoons shredded (or “desiccated”) unsweetened coconut

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ teaspoon salt

Ginger Almond Crisp Topping

1¼ cups all-purpose flour

½ cup chopped sliced almonds

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¼ cup finely chopped crystallized ginger

¼ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

Crumble the topping over the prepared filling.

Bake until the filling is bubbling and the topping is lightly browned, about 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Note: Be careful of a double hit of cinnamon. Omit the cinnamon from either the filling or the topping in any pairing that has it in both.

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Another American fruit dessert classic is a buckle: berries stirred directly into a quick batter. Because of its coffee cakelike crumb, we’ve included one on section Cakes in the coffee cake chapter.

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Steamed British Pudding with Caramel Custard Sauce

The good news? You don’t need a hunk of suet to make this classic. In fact, the bright taste of the brandy and fruit comes through better if you cut down on the fat. Serve with Caramel Custard Sauce, Zabaglione, or Sweetened Whipped Cream. Makes 8 servings

1 cup brandy

1 cup chopped packed figs, preferably Calimyrna figs (about 6 ounces)

1 cup chopped pitted dates (about 6 ounces)

½ cup dried cherries or cranberries, chopped (about 3 ounces)

Juice and zest from 1 large orange

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons plain dried bread crumbs

¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ cup solid vegetable shortening, preferably nonhydrogenated shortening, melted and cooled, plus additional for greasing the baking dish

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon salt

Butcher’s twine

Caramel Custard Sauce (recipe follows)

Bring the brandy, figs, dates, cherries or cranberries, orange juice, and orange zest to a simmer in a large saucepan set over medium heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the liquid has been absorbed, about 7 minutes. Set aside to cool completely, about 1 hour.

Grease a 1½-quart round, high-sided soufflé dish; set aside.

Stir the eggs, bread crumbs, brown sugar, granulated sugar, melted shortening, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and salt into the saucepan with the dried fruit until uniform.

Pour the mixture into the prepared soufflé dish; smooth the top flat.

Tear off a sheet of aluminum foil that will cover the dish and lightly grease the center portion that will sit over the pudding. Position the foil with the greased part down; tie butcher’s twine around the outside of the dish to secure the foil. (You can also use a large rubber band.)

Set a small baking rack in the center of a large Dutch oven or pot that will hold the baking dish. Fill the pot with water until it comes just below the rack. Set the baking dish on the rack, set the pot over high heat, and bring the water to a boil.

Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and steam the pudding until set, about 1 hour and 45 minutes, checking the water frequently and adding more as needed.

Remove the hot dish from the pot and set, covered, on a wire rack to cool for at least 20 minutes. Serve with Caramel Custard Sauce (see opposite). If not serving immediately, store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Variations: You can use any combination of dried fruit