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Whisk the milk and flour in a medium saucepan until the flour is dissolved. Set over medium heat and continue whisking until the mixture is thickened and just bubbling, about 3 minutes.

With the mixer at medium speed, slowly beat this hot milk mixture into the egg yolk mixture until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

Beat in the Grand Marnier, orange zest, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Set aside.

Clean and dry the beaters. Beat the egg whites in a large bowl with the mixer at medium speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Raise the speed to high and continue beating, adding the remaining sugar 1 tablespoon at a time, until you can feel no sugar granules between your fingers and the mixture makes smooth, glossy, droopy but nonetheless firm peaks off the tip of a rubber spatula, about 2 minutes.

Use a rubber spatula to fold half the egg white mixture into the Grand Marnier mixture until smooth, then fold in the remainder of the beaten whites in smooth, long arcs just until there is no white visible. Spoon and spread this mixture into the prepared soufflé dish.

Bake until puffed, lightly browned, and set, about 30 minutes. Serve at once.

Raspberry Soufflé: Substitute raspberry-flavored liqueur, such as Chambord, for the Grand Marnier; substitute 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest for the orange zest.

Almond Soufflé: Substitute an almond-flavored liqueur such as Amaretto for the Grand Marnier and substitute ½ teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla. Omit the orange zest if desired.

Anise Soufflé: Substitute Sambuca for the Grand Marnier and substitute 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest for the orange zest.

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To prepare a soufflé dish, lightly butter a 1½-quart, high-sided, round soufflé dish. Tear off a piece of aluminum foil about 10 inches long, fold it in half lengthwise, and butter one side. Wrap the foil around the soufflé dish butter side in so that 3 inches of foil stick up over the rim of the dish. Tape the foil together so it stays in a ring or tie it in place with butcher’s twine. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon sugar into the dish, then shake and roll it around a bit to coat the bottom, sides, and the inside of the foil with sugar. Knock out any excess.

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Tools of the Trade

A Glossary for Some Ingredients

Adobo Sauce. See Chipotle Chiles.

Asiago. This Italian cheese from the Veneto was once made with sheep’s milk but now is made almost exclusively with cow’s milk. It’s piquant, salty, and nutty, like a more intense version of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Fresh varieties are occasionally—if rarely—available at high-end cheese counters, but we only call for aged Asiago, better for storage in the refrigerator over a couple of weeks if tightly wrapped.

Asian Red Chili Sauce. It’s made from a fresh or fermented mixture of chiles, vegetables, and spices. Because there are hundreds of different kinds, experiment with various bottlings to discover which is right for your palate. Sambal Oelek is an Indonesian bottling, not quite as hot as others like Sriracha, a Thai or Thai-style sauce that’s quite fiery. There are also Vietnamese bottlings with garlic added.

Baking Powder. Keep it dry; use only double-acting baking powder. Baking powder loses its efficacy over time as the acid and alkali react. As a rule, keep baking powder for 6 months. To check if yours if viable, dissolve 1 teaspoon in 1 cup lukewarm water. If it bubbles, you’re good to go.

Baking Soda. Make sure to keep it dry. Even so, since ambient humidity compromises its effectiveness, replace it after 8 to 9 months. Never cook with baking soda that’s been stored in the refrigerator to trap food odors.

Balsamic Vinegar. Technically made only from Trebbiano grapes (although most brands now are made with blends), this syrupy vinegar is low acid and a good match to greens. Aged balsamics are expensive and are only used as condiments.

White balsamic vinegar is milder and less sweet, a combination of white wine vinegar and grape juice.

Black Vinegar. This Chinese condiment