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Gorgonzola. This is a ripe, aged, Italian cow’s milk blue cheese, often served with fruit for dessert.

Grana Padano. Sometimes considered a cheaper alternative to Parmigiano-Reggiano, this part–skimmed milk cheese is milder, with a fresh, less salty finish. It’s best for grating and perfect when you don’t want the spike of a heavier cheese.

Gruyère. This medium-fat cow’s milk cheese was originally from Switzerland; it’s now produced in most Western countries. Gruyère is somewhat hard, aged about 10 months. It grates well and is prized for its bitter, nutty flavor. One problem: it molds quickly, since it’s not made with stabilizers. The solution: buy only as much as you need and store it wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator (not in the hydrator).

Half-and-Half. This is a mixture of half heavy cream and half whole milk. By and large, it has a fat content of between 10% and 12%.

Haricots Verts. These are a variety of French green beans, although the term has come to mean any tiny, thin string beans. They are darker and less fibrous than their larger American kin. In a pinch, substitute standard green beans but cut them into 2- or 3-inch sections.

Heavy Cream. The British and Canadian equivalent is double cream; some states sell heavy cream as “whipping cream.” You can substitute light cream (or single cream) in any sauté or casserole but not in a baking recipe, dessert sauce, or emulsified (whipped) sauce.

Herbs. These are any number of leafy plants whose oils and natural flavor esters enhance a dish. Amounts in the recipes are usually given for both fresh and dried herbs unless either is necessary for the dish’s success. For example, fresh herbs are better as a “finish”; dried herbs hold up better in deep-frying. In all recipes, fresh herbs are listed with an obvious marker, something that tells you what to do with the leaves: “2 teaspoons minced oregano leaves” or “1 teaspoon stemmed thyme.” Dried herbs are listed as “dried.” Don’t forget that dried herbs have a shelf life; figure on 9 months as an easy guide, provided you store them in a cool, dark place.

Hoisin Sauce. This thick, sweet, ketchup-like, Asian condiment is made from soybeans, garlic, sugar, spices, and vinegar. It must be refrigerated once opened. Chouhee sauce is a slightly stronger version.

Honey. Its quality will dramatically impact your dish. In almost all recipes, don’t be afraid to experiment with exotic varieties like orange blossom, chestnut, oak, or star thistle.

Horseradish. This root from a spiky green grass is highly prized in Central Europe for its pungent, nose-piercing flavor. In this book, we only specify bottled white horseradish, the grated white root seasoned with vinegar and salt and available most often in the dairy case of supermarkets.

Hot Red Pepper Sauce. Any bottled hot sauce will do, Tabasco being the most popular. We call for its use because of the bright, clean, puckering-hot bite it gives to a dish. Do not substitute salsa or smoked pepper sauces, such as those made from chipotles.

Kosher Salt. See Salt.

Lemongrass. This long, dry grass is naturally spiked with citral, an oil used to make citronella candles. Buy lemongrass stalks that are still tender, not brittle; remove the prickly outer leaves. To release the oils before adding a stalk to a dish, crush (but don’t shatter) the stalk, using the smooth side of a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy saucepan. In almost all cases, it should be removed before serving, like a bay leaf.

Maple Syrup. See section Breakfast and Brunch.

Marsala. This fortified Sicilian wine is available in two forms: sweet or dry. All recipes here call for dry Marsala; sweet is better for sipping after dinner. Once opened, it can be stoppered and stored in a cool, dry place at room temperature for several months.

Masa Harina. Literally “dough flour,” this is the base ingredient for tortillas and tamales. It’s made from dried corn kernels that have been cooked in limewater, then ground to a powder. Look for it in Mexican and Latin