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Variation: Use this same batter to make shrimp, scallop, or fish fillet tempura. Fry until lacy and crisp, about 3 minutes.

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Vinegary Dips for Fried Things

While flavored mayonnaises, Aïoli, or Classic Cocktail Sauce are traditional condiments for fried tidbits, we like the tangy zip of vinegary sauces. For any of these, whisk the ingredients in a small bowl.

Simple Asian Dipping Sauce

¼ cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Sesame Dipping Sauce

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Malty Sauce

1/3 cup malt vinegar

1½ teaspoons prepared horseradish

Mignonette

½ cup white wine or champagne vinegar

2 small shallots, minced

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

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Elegant Starters

These ride the line between a starter and a meal; just add a tossed salad or some side veggies and you can call many of them dinner. Many can also be plated as a more formal first course.

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Gravlax

A Swedish specialty, gravlax is cured salmon. Buy only fresh salmon, not previously frozen fillets. Serve it with any or all of these: sliced pumpernickel bread, table crackers, cornichons or small dill pickles, drained capers, chopped hard-cooked egg yolks, chopped hard-cooked egg whites, chopped red onion, sour cream, crème fraîche, or Dijon mustard mixed with chopped herbs. Makes about 12 small servings

One 2-pound salmon fillet, skinned (see Note)

¼ cup kosher salt

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups dill fronds, cut into 2-inch sections

Gently run your hand over the salmon’s flesh to ensure there are no bones remaining. Be careful—the bones can pierce your skin. Should you find any, remove them with a sterilized pair of tweezers.

Mix the salt, sugar, and pepper together in a small bowl. Rub this mixture into both sides of the fillet, taking care to get the seasonings into the flesh without mashing or tearing it.

Place half the dill fronds in a glass 13 × 9-inch baking dish, then lay the fillet on top. Cover with the remaining fronds, pushing them down so they adhere to the flesh. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 2 days.

Remove the dill and wipe off any salt mixture adhering to the fillet. Place it on a cutting board or a wooden serving tray. Slice into paper-thin pieces with a long, thin knife, angling the blade through the flesh for slightly wider pieces.

Note: Your fishmonger can skin the salmon for you. If you’d like to do it yourself, place the fillet skin side down on a large cutting board. Pick up the narrowest tip of the fillet and run a long, thin, very sharp slicing knife between the flesh and the skin, angling the blade down toward the skin without cutting through to the cutting board. Draw the blade back and forth, cutting between the flesh and skin. Once you have some of the skin detached, hold the loose skin down against the cutting board with one hand and continue to work the knife between the flesh and skin, thereby taking the flesh off the skin (rather than sawing the skin off the flesh). You may have to stop several times and reposition the blade; keep the tension constant and firm on the loosened skin.

Variations: In all of these, omit the dill.

Lightly toast 2 tablespoons cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Cool completely, then place half of these cumin seeds in the baking dish, top with the rubbed salmon, then press the remaining cumin seeds gently into the flesh.

Reduce the sugar to 1½ tablespoons. Add 2 teaspoons wasabi powder and 2 teaspoons ground ginger with the remaining sugar.

Substitute 1 cup packed, shredded sage, tarragon, or basil leaves for the dill fronds.

Add 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon to the salt and sugar mixture.

Add 2 teaspoons crushed juniper berries to the salt and sugar mixture.

Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary to the salt and sugar mixture.

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Ten Things to Do with Gravlax

Roll thinly sliced