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2 to 3 large Russet potatoes, peeled, cut in half the short way, and soaked in cool water for 15 minutes

4 to 6 cups peanut oil

Salt to taste

Fit a mandoline with the waffle blade. Grip a potato half with the food guard and run the cut side of the potato over the blade. Rotate 90 degrees and run it again over the blade. A waffle-cut slice should fall out of the bottom of the machine. Check the slice to make sure the holes are visible and that the slice holds together when picked up—otherwise, adjust the blade. Continue making more slices, rotating the potato and grip by 90 degrees after each cut. Lay the slices on paper towels.

Pour the peanut oil into a large saucepan until it comes about halfway up the sides, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan, and set over medium-high heat. Bring the oil to 375°F.

Slip several slices into the oil; fry until lightly browned, about 2 minutes, turning once or twice. Adjust the heat so the oil’s temperature remains constant. Transfer the gaufrettes to a fine-mesh wire rack and continue frying more. Season with salt, as desired, within seconds of their coming out of the oil. (The gaufrettes can be made in advance; once cooled, store them in a sealed container at room temperature for up to 1 day.)

Seared Foie Gras with Apricot Relish

This fatty, creamy goose or duck liver may have fancy restaurant overtones, but nothing could be easier to fix—with a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet and good ventilation. Look for smooth, pinkish, compact, small lobes. Makes 8 servings

One 2-pound lobe foie gras, well chilled

Apricot Relish (recipe follows)

Run very hot water over a sharp chef’s knife until the blade is quite hot. Slice the foie gras into ¾-inch-thick slices, making 2 or 3 slices before reheating the knife under hot water. Place the slices on a platter, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Heat a large, well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over high heat until smoking, about 5 minutes. Slip several strips of foie gras into the skillet; keep the others in the refrigerator. Cook until browned and crisp on the outside (but soft to the touch), no more than 1 minute. Turn with a metal spatula and cook until browned, about 1 additional minute. The strips will have rendered a great deal of fat. Transfer to serving plates, pour off the fat in the pan, and continue frying more. Serve with the Apricot Relish.

Variations: Forgo the Apricot Relish and drizzle the seared strips of foie gras with aged, syrupy balsamic vinegar or pomegranate molasses. Or serve the seared foie gras over pineapple rounds that have been coated with canola oil and then grilled over high heat until lightly browned, about 3 minutes, turning once—or with the Grilled Pineapple Salsa.

Apricot Relish Makes about 3 cups

1 medium onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

2 cups chopped pitted fresh apricots (8 to 10 whole apricots)

1 cup packed light brown sugar

½ cup cider vinegar

¼ cup dried cranberries, chopped

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

½ tablespoon mustard seeds

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

Place the onion, garlic, apricots, brown sugar, cider vinegar, dried cranberries, lemon juice, ginger, mustard seeds, red pepper flakes, cinnamon, and salt in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Stir until the mixture comes to a simmer, then reduce the heat and simmer slowly until thickened, about 40 minutes. Cover and set aside off the heat while you prepare the foie gras—or cool somewhat, transfer to a plastic container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days; bring back to room temperature before serving.

Savory Tarts

Call it make-ahead elegance: a walnut crust, prebaked in a 10-inch tart pan, and filled with a savory filling. Makes 8 servings (one 10-inch tart)

½ cup toasted walnut halves

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting and rolling

½ teaspoon salt

½ stick (4 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks