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Stuffed Appetizers

All these appetizers are filled—then rolled, fried, baked, or steamed. They’re not for weekdays; most take a little time but are great for weekends or holiday parties.

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Summer Rolls

Here’s a no-cook affair of translucent wrappers holding fresh ingredients. A staple in Southeast Asian cooking, rice paper wrappers are made from rice flour, water, and salt; rolled to thin sheets, they’re dried on bamboo mats (thus, their crosshatch designs). Found in the Asian food section of most markets and in all Asian grocery stores, they can be stored in a cool, dark, dry place for up to 3 months. Makes 12 summer rolls

Canola or vegetable oil, for greasing the

baking sheet

12 rice paper wrappers

One of the five summer roll fillings that

follow

For dipping: Salsa, Wasabi Mayonnaise, Simple Asian Dipping Sauce, Sesame Dipping Sauce, Mignonette, Peanut-Ginger Sauce, seasoned rice vinegar, and/or your favorite vinaigrette

Dab a little oil on a paper towel and lightly grease a large baking sheet; cover it loosely with plastic wrap and set aside.

Fill a large, shallow bowl or a small baking pan with warm water. Pick up one brittle, dried wrapper and make sure it isn’t cracked or broken. Slip it into the water and soak just until pliable, usually less than 25 seconds. Remove it from the water and place it on your work surface.

Place the filling in a horizontal line in the bottom quarter of the wrapper. Fold two sides of the circle over the filling, then roll the wrapper up, rolling it away from you. Don’t push down, but make sure the filling is compact inside the wrapper. Slip the filled wrapper under the plastic wrap covering the baking sheet. Continue making more of the summer rolls, slipping them under the plastic wrap so they don’t dry out. Store at room temperature for about 1 hour or in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours. Serve with a dipping sauce on the side.

The Five Fillings for Summer Rolls

Don’t mix the ingredients together; simply divide them among the 12 summer rolls and place them on top of each other in the wrapper before rolling it up (as directed in step 3).

1. 1 pound tempeh, cut into very thin strips 4 ounces radish sprouts

½ cup Peanut-Ginger Sauce (about 2 teaspoons per roll)

2. 36 purchased cooked medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and diced

½ cup hoisin sauce (2 teaspoons per roll)

3. 8 ounces cooked chicken, chopped

1 medium cucumber, peeled and shredded through the large holes of a box grater

½ cup mango or other fruit chutney (2 teaspoons per roll)

4. About 4 ounces smoked salmon or Gravlax, cut into long strips

6 radishes, cut into thin rings

½ cup crème fraîche (2 teaspoons per roll)

5. 12 cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and chopped

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

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Tips for Success

• The water must be warm to soften the wrappers; replace it often.

• Wipe your counter often or the wrappers will get water-logged.

• The rolls will stick together if they touch on the baking sheet.

• The rolls are best within an hour of their being made.

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Chinese Dumplings

Shanghai-style wrappers are thinner but stay firmer, less slippery after they’re steamed (and crisper after they’re fried). Make these dumplings up to 8 hours before you steam them; once stuffed, store them, covered with plastic wrap, on a cornstarch-dusted baking sheet in the refrigerator. Makes about 40 dumplings

¾ pound ground pork

¼ pound medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), peeled and deveined

¼ cup canned preserved Szechuan cabbage, turnip, or mixed vegetables

4 scallions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar

40 or more circular Shanghai-style dumpling wrappers

Cornstarch, for dusting the baking sheet

Nonstick spray or canola oil, for greasing the steamer baskets

Simple