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2 tablespoons lime juice

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

2 tablespoons walnut oil

Peel open the corn husks, remove the silk from the ears, and pat the husks back in place. Fill your sink with cool water, add the ears in their husks, and soak for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a gas grill to medium heat or build a medium-heat coal bed in a charcoal grill. Lightly oil the grill rack. (For a method using the broiler, see the Variations.)

Remove the corn from the water and drain. Place the ears in their wet husks directly over the heated grill or the coal bed. Cover and grill for 5 minutes, turning a couple of times. Transfer to a cutting board and cool for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the onion slices directly over the heat; grill until lightly browned, about 3 minutes, turning two or three times. Transfer to the cutting board to cool.

Remove the husks from the corn and cut off one end of the cobs so they will stand upright on a cutting board. Holding the ears carefully, slice the kernels off the cobs with a large knife, cutting down between the kernels and the cob. Discard the cobs. Chop the onion slices into kernel-sized pieces.

Whisk the lime juice, cumin, salt, and hot red pepper sauce in a medium serving bowl. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil. Add the corn kernels and onion; toss well to serve.

Variations: To forgo the grill, preheat the broiler and place the soaked corn in its husks and the onions on an aluminum foil–lined broiler pan 4 to 6 inches from the heat, turning several times, until lightly browned.

For a creamier salad, omit the walnut oil and stir in ¼ cup mayonnaise with the lime juice and seasonings.

Grilled Salad

We’ve been unabashed fans of grilled lettuce ever since we lived off this salad one summer in northeastern Vermont. There’s no need for a formal dressing: the lettuce picks up the smoky flavor of the grill and keeps plenty of olive oil in the leaves. If you don’t have access to a grill, you can use a grill pan (see step 3). Makes 6 servings

½ cup olive oil

1 large head romaine lettuce, cut in half, outer leaves removed

2 small heads radicchio, cut in quarters, outer leaves removed

2 small heads Belgian endive, cut in half, outer leaves removed

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, preferably aged balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a gas grill to high heat for direct cooking or prepare a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Set the grate about 5 inches from the heat.

Pour the olive oil in a large baking dish; dip the lettuce sections into the oil on all sides, then place them cut side down on the grate directly over the heat. Cook, covered, until lightly browned and a little wilted, about 4 minutes, turning once. Transfer to a cutting board; cool for a few minutes.

Core the romaine and radicchio. Shred all the lettuces with a large knife into 1-inch slices. Place in a large serving bowl; toss with the vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Using a grill pan: Heat it to medium-high heat and then add the oil-dipped lettuce. Cook just until slightly wilted and browned, about 3 minutes, turning once.

Variations: Soak 2 long rosemary spears in water for 10 minutes, then lay these in a drip pan over the heat source or directly on top of the coals before grilling the lettuces to infuse them with some of the rosemary flavor.

Toss one 6-ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts, drained and roughly chopped, and/or one 6-ounce jar pimientos, sliced, with the sliced grilled lettuce.

Roasted Radicchio and Shallots

Roasting radicchio mellows its edge, leaving it with just enough spike to complement the sweet, caramelized shallots. Makes 6 servings

3 medium shallots, peeled

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium heads radicchio, outer leaves removed (see Note)

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¼ to ½ teaspoon salt

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the shallots in a large baking dish, pour 2 tablespoons