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IF you haven’t used the technique of deglazing (page 19) yet, here is the place to give it a shot. If bits of seitan stick to the bottom of the pot and start to burn while you’re sautéing, deglaze the pot with a few tablespoons of cooking sherry. Then remove the seitan from the pot and continue as directed. The browned bits add lots of flavor, while the deglazing prevents them from sticking around and burning when cooking the vegetables.

6 tablespoons olive oil

1 recipe Simple Seitan (page 131), or 16 ounces store-bought seitan, diced or pulled apart into bite-size pieces

1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice

1 large yellow onion, cut into ½-inch dice

2 stalks celery, cut into small dice

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 heaping tablespoons tomato paste

½ cup cooking sherry or vegetable broth

2 cups long-grain rice, brown or white

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes

1 (15-ounce) can white kidney (cannellini) beans

1 (15-ounce) can red kidney beans

1 bay leaf

4-6 sprigs fresh thyme (optional but really great here)

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon dried paprika

½ teaspoon celery seed

½ teaspoon onion powder

¼ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

4 cups vegetable broth

1 teaspoon salt

Several pinches of freshly ground black pepper

Chopped, fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish

PREHEAT THE oven to 375°F.

Preheat a large (the biggest you have) oven-to-table Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-heat. Sauté the seitan in 2 tablespoons of olive oil for 4 to 6 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove from the pot and set aside. Add the remaining olive oil to the pot, then stir in the onion, celery, green pepper, and garlic. Sauté for 12 to 14 minutes, until the vegetables are very soft and a tad mushy. Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently, for another 4 minutes.

Stir in the cooking sherry to deglaze the vegetables, cook for 30 seconds, then add the rice. Stir the rice for about 4 minutes, then stir in the diced tomatoes, seitan, beans, bay leaf, all of the herbs, and the salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, pour in the vegetable broth, and return to a simmer. Taste the broth and adjust the salt and pepper to taste.

If using a Dutch oven, cover and place in oven for 30 to 35 minutes, until the rice is tender. If using a pot, transfer to a deep casserole dish, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes. If using brown rice, increase the baking time to 40 to 45 minutes.

Remove from the oven, stir the jambalaya, then cover and allow to sit for about 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with chopped parsley if desired.

MANZANA CHILI VERDE

SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME: 1 HOUR

This mild green chili has a secret weapon! Okay, it isn’t so secret if you speak Spanish—it’s apples. They give this chili mellow notes of sweet and tart. Tomatillos, poblano peppers, jalapeños, and cilantro give this chili its flavorful verde-ness; little white beans and cubes of tender white potatoes give it heartiness. Perfect with Jalapeño Onion Corn Bread (page 223). The next time your family or loved ones complain that all you vegans ever make is chili, serve this one and graciously accept their apology.

1 pound baby Yukon golds or other thick-skinned potato, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice

3 jalapeños, seeded and sliced thinly

2 poblano peppers, seeded and chopped into 1-inch pieces

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican oregano)

1 teaspoon salt

⅓ cup dry white wine

1 pound tomatillos (about 10 small to medium ones), papery skin removed, washed, chopped into ½- to ¾-inch pieces

2 Granny Smith apples, cored, quartered, and sliced thinly

2 cups vegetable broth

1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro

¼ cup chopped scallions, plus extra for garnish

1 (15-ounce) can small white beans, such as navy or cannellini, drained