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➣Kombu, dried giant kelp, is a standard ingredient in Japanese soups and condiments. When cooked in a stock or broth, it will unfold into a really big sheet. Don’t freak out, just let the stock cook as directed and then remove and discard the kelp when it’s done.

➣Dried udon works just fine here, too. Cook the noodles according to the package directions and rinse in cold water, then keep them handy in a colander. Rinse in warm water when ready to add to stir-fry.

In a separate pot, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add the udon noodles and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until tender. Use chopsticks to pull apart the noodles while they are cooking. Transfer to a colander in the sink, rinse well with cold water, and allow the noodles to continue to drain. If at any point the noodles get too gummy and sticky, rinse with warm water to separate.

Meanwhile, add the leek, carrot, kabocha, and tofu to the broth. Simmer over medium-low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, until the squash is tender and can be pierced easily with a fork. Stir in the sake and mirin.

Place portions of the rinsed udon noodles into large, deep, individual serving bowls. Use a slotted spoon to add vegetable chunks to the bowls, then a ladle to spoon on the stock. Sprinkle with chopped scallions. Eat with a large spoon and chopsticks.

BRAISED SEITAN WITH BRUSSELS, KALE, AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

SERVES 4

TIME: 30 MINUTES

This makes an easy weeknight meal served over mashed potatoes, pasta, or rice. Make it a little more fancy with either Soft Poppy-Seed Polenta (page 115) or Broccoli Polenta (page 114). A warm and flavorful Fork You to winter.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little extra if needed

6 average-size shallots, sliced thinly

2 cups seitan, sliced on the diagonal into bite-size pieces

½ pound Brussels sprouts, quartered (about 2 cups once sliced)

4 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried basil

¼ teaspoon dried tarragon

½ teaspoon salt

Several pinches of freshly ground black pepper

½ cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped into bite-size pieces

2 cups vegetable broth

¼ cup red wine (any wine will do, really)

4 cups chopped kale

PREHEAT A large, heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the shallots and seitan in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil for about 7 minutes, until they have both browned. Add the Brussels sprouts and sauté for 3 more minutes, adding a little extra olive oil if need be. Add the garlic, herbs, salt, and pepper, and sauté for another minute. Mix in the sun-dried tomatoes.

Add the vegetable broth and wine. Once the liquid is boiling, which should be pretty quick if the heat is right, add the chopped kale. Stir the kale until it is wilted. Cover the pan, leaving a little room for steam to escape, and lower the heat. Simmer for 5 to 7 more minutes. Taste and adjust the salt, and serve immediately.

CHOLENT

SERVES 6

TIME: 45 MINUTES

Cholent is a Jewish beef stew that’s typically served on the Sabbath. Here, we use textured vegetable protein (TVP), kidney beans, and lentils to create a thick, full bodied pot of stick-to-your-ribs yumminess. Caraway seeds give it the Eastern European flavor that sets it apart from your run-of-the-mill stew, so now would be a great time to add them to your spice rack arsenal.We like to just crush crackers over the top and serve, but rice would be good, too. Or serve with bread for scooping. Warning: You might start inexplicably calling people meshugenahs and putzes after you’ve eaten this.

This is one of those stews that really benefits from a night in the fridge, but don’t let that deter you from eating it right away (or any day of the week).

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, cut into medium-size dice

3 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon tarragon

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon salt

Several pinches of freshly ground black pepper

½ cup red cooking wine, water, or vegetable broth

2 bay leaves

½ cup French lentils,