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This is our cream of choice for latkes both of the potato persuasion and the beet kind (see Autumn Latkes, page 53). It also makes a wonderful dressing, especially for cucumbers.We used fresh horseradish but if you can only find the jarred kind, go ahead and use it. Since it’s stronger than fresh, add a tablespoon at first and taste from there.

1 pound soft tofu

2 tablespoons fresh, grated horseradish

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon agave or real maple syrup

¾ teaspoons salt

3 cloves garlic, crushed

¼ cup grapeseed oil

1 cup loosely packed fresh dill

REMOVE THE tofu from the package and shake off any excess water. Place in a blender or food processor (a food processor works better) along with the horseradish, apple cider vinegar, agave, and salt. Blend until smooth.

Preheat a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Place the crushed garlic and grapeseed oil in the pan. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. The garlic should blondir (that means “lightly brown”) but not burn. Remove the garlic from the oil and discard. Add the oil to the tofu mixture and blend again until smooth. Add the dill and horseradish, and blend until smooth—the cream will be light green with some flecks of dill. Scrape down the sides to make sure you get everything.

Taste and adjust the salt and vinegar, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and seal tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

SOUR CILANTRO CREAM

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS TIME TO CHILL

Here’s a nice replacement for sour cream on anything where cilantro would fit in: burritos, tacos, black bean soup, you name it. It’s also a yummy salad dressing and great on black bean burger (page 98).

1 pound silken tofu (not the vacuum-packed kind)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)

1 tablespoon agave syrup

¾ teaspoons salt

3 cloves garlic, crushed

¼ cup grapeseed oil

2 cups loosely packed fresh cilantro (stems and leaves)

REMOVE THE tofu from the package and shake off any excess water. Place in a blender or food processor (a food processor works better) along with the lime juice, agave, and salt. Blend until smooth.

Preheat a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Place the crushed garlic and grapeseed oil in the pan. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes. The garlic should blondir (that means “to lightly brown”) but not burn. Add to the tofu mixture and blend again until smooth. Add the cilantro and, guess what? Yep, blend until smooth and light green with some flecks of dark green. Scrape down the sides to make sure you get everything.

Taste and adjust the salt and lime, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl, seal tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. It will get a little bit firmer but will still have a pourable consistency.

SALSA VERDE

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

TIME: 40 MINUTES

What Mexican meal is complete without a little salsa verde? Maybe a Mexican meal using some other Mexican sauce, but that’s neither here nor there. Salsa verde (green sauce to you, bub) is made with those mysterious tomatolike wonders, tomatillos. Serve chilled with chips and guacamole, or hot over enchiladas and burritos. This is a mild version, so add more jalapeños if you like it hot. Wear gloves to avoid touching the seeds, or your hands will burn all day. (If you’re like us and don’t have gloves, just be careful!)

10 tomatillos (husks removed), cleaned and diced

1 teaspoon olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 jalapeño, seeded and minced

¼ teaspoon sea salt

1½ cups vegetable broth

Juice of 1 lime

1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro

IN A small saucepan over low heat, sauté the garlic and jalapeño in oil until fragrant, about 3 minutes.

Add the tomatillos and salt, sauté until the tomatillos begin to soften and release moisture, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable broth, bring to a slow boil, and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove from the heat, let cool until it is not steaming, then add the